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mkirsch
Rochester, NY
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Joined: 04/09/2004
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Keeping what you got isn't free.
I'm already off to a rip roaring start this year. Went to pull my trusty 2002 Silverado 3500 out of the barn, won't barely move. Bunch of transmission codes.
I think my 2015 Silverado 1500's torque converter is coming apart too. It's got the "shutter" that everyone posts about and it's right in that mileage range where the torque converters go bad. Just Saturday it started throwing a message "Service 4WD" and won't shift into 4x4.
Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.
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valhalla360
No paticular place.
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Joined: 08/19/2009
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MFL wrote:Hey Marty...from my experience, purchasing/shopping for several new FWs, the dry wts given are for the entire trailer, sitting on the scale, disconnected from truck. The dry pin wt is normally about 20% of this figure. So, if the entire dry wt of trailer is 5,500, the dry pin would be 1,100. Then fully loaded 7,000, sitting on the scale, truck disconnected/trailer only, would have 1,400 pin wt, when reconnected to truck.
This the reason some FWs with 10K gvwr only have 4,400 axles. Mine has 5,200 axles, but a 12,110 gvwr.
Jerry
GVWR is for the entire trailer not what sits on the axles. The axle rating plus hitch weight added together should equal or exceed the GVWR. You may or may not get lucky exceeding the GVWR.
With a 1400lb pin weight, not many 1/2 ton trucks will have the payload once you add in a hitch and a few people in the truck, plus anything else in the bed or bolted on after market (all of which count against the payload).
If you think you know better than the manufacturer, go for it but lots of folks have played that game and payed the price when they pay for the bigger truck or quit RVing because it's scary to drive an overloaded rig.
1/2 ton trucks are really much better suited to bumper pull where hitch weight should be 12-15% rather than the 20-25% of a 5th wheel.
Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
2021 Gray Wolf
Gemini Catamaran 34'
Full Time spliting time between boat and RV
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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Joined: 05/06/2013
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mkirsch wrote:Keeping what you got isn't free.
I'm already off to a rip roaring start this year. Went to pull my trusty 2002 Silverado 3500 out of the barn, won't barely move. Bunch of transmission codes.
I think my 2015 Silverado 1500's torque converter is coming apart too. It's got the "shutter" that everyone posts about and it's right in that mileage range where the torque converters go bad. Just Saturday it started throwing a message "Service 4WD" and won't shift into 4x4.
Find a good trans shop now if it just started the shudder. My 2016 (same truck/trans as yours) did that for the first 60k of its life before coming apart.
I took the truck in with a couple thousand miles on it and told the dealer the TQ converter had an issue. Of course “cannot replicate” was the finding. Mine only did it under high load from a stop. Of course you can’t replicate that by driving an empty truck around the block…lol.
I’m all but certain the “shudder “ didn’t do any damage downstream until something finally came apart. Like I said, did it since new, never got appreciably worse, truck was horse whipped pretty hard in that 60k miles. Like bumper pull trailers in the 10-14k range flat peddled up n over the Cascades with 4-5000rpm grade braking comin down the other side.
Then one day it started acting up.
I never read about the issue much (company truck, didn’t care) but from a practical standpoint I’m 90% sure a new tq converter before it self destructed would have saved the trans without propagating more issues.
Hope this helps.
And the 4wd issue is likely unrelated (fortunately or unfortunately depending how you look at it).
Is your 02 an Alli or a 4L80? 100k miles maybe a bit more is a good/average lifespan for a 4L60/4L80.
* This post was
edited 03/27/23 11:31am by Grit dog *
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold
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MFL
Midwest
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^^Lol...reread what I wrote bud! I can't say it any simpler, you either get it, or you don't!
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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MFL wrote:^^Lol...reread what I wrote bud! I can't say it any simpler, you either get it, or you don't!
Stop yelling at me!! ![[emoticon]](http://www.rv.net/sharedcontent/cfb/images/biggrin.gif "biggrin")
Hahahaha
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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But to mkirsch’s point, cost of running an old rig vs new is variable and things like luck, skill, ability and intuition all affect that cost benefit ratio.
If everyone was an ASE certified mechanic and took care of their vehicles there would be more old vehicles on the road. But many treat vehicles like a much simpler more reliable tool like a hammer. And just use it and use it and leave it out in the rain and miss judge what they’re hitting until the hammer handle just breaks in half.
Except your car costs as much as 1000 or 3000 hammers. But that doesn’t mean you can treat it 1000x worse and expect any good to come of it.
Not directed at mkirsch, but y’all know who you are or see it every day….
For those in this scenario, the cost of a new hammer rather than replacing the handle on the old one is probably the least obtrusive scenario.
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blt2ski
Kirkland, Wa
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cost of new vs used, assuming used is paid for, used can be perile more expensive than new, depending upon the what needs repairs. add in IF you use the rig for work, lost days of income etc. At one time it was best to get rid of working pickups in the 100-125k mile relm. today closer to 200k miles.
IF repairs start costing more per year tgan payments, better to get a new one.
marty
92 Navistar dump truck, 7.3L 7 sp, 4.33 gears with a Detroit no spin
2014 Chevy 1500 Dual cab 4x4
92 Red-e-haul 12K equipment trailer
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MFL
Midwest
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Grit dog wrote:MFL wrote:^^Lol...reread what I wrote bud! I can't say it any simpler, you either get it, or you don't!
Stop yelling at me!!
Hahahaha
Ha, you'll be alright! ![[emoticon]](http://www.rv.net/sharedcontent/cfb/images/cool.gif "cool")
My arrows up didn't allow for privileged members that save their place. ![[emoticon]](http://www.rv.net/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif "smile")
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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^Lol, I don’t think that’s a premium member perk!
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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blt2ski wrote:cost of new vs used, assuming used is paid for, used can be perile more expensive than new, depending upon the what needs repairs. add in IF you use the rig for work, lost days of income etc. At one time it was best to get rid of working pickups in the 100-125k mile relm. today closer to 200k miles.
IF repairs start costing more per year tgan payments, better to get a new one.
marty
True. And if ya have an old car, ya oughta have 2! Keeps ya from missin work while you fix the other one. That’s how I grew up. 2 cheap cars or trucks always costs less than 1 new one, even if you drive one off a cliff….
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