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Open Roads Forum > Class A Motorhomes > Maintenance Issues & Tips

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jspringator

Versailles, KY 40383

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Posted: 04/28/23 06:17am

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I have a 2002 Winnebago Sightseer 27c with an 8.1 engine. I replaced the heater core a couple of years ago. As far as I know the water pump and radiator are original. It only had 40,000 miles on it when I bought it, so it is doubtful the PO did anything to the cooling system.

I'm considering some preventive maintenance on the cooling system. Radiator? Hoses? Water pump? What does everyone recommend? If it matters, it has 90,000 miles on it now. I don't want to get stuck making repairs on a trip.

Jim & Sherri
02 Winnebago Sightseer 27c Class A;
"Scout" Springer Spaniel, gone but not forgotten;
"Boo" Chocolate Labradoodle.

JoeH

Apollo Beach,FL

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Posted: 04/28/23 07:31am

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As long as you are going to do PM, won't hurt to take the radiator out and have it rodded. That way, you'll know you are good.

Joe
2013 Dutch Star 4338- all electric
Toad is 2015 F-150 with bikes,kayaks and Harley aboard

enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

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Posted: 04/28/23 09:13am

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Hoses including heater, belts are for sure.
Radiator is a difficult one. Rodding could be good, but a replacement with an all-aluminum direct replacement could be a better choice.
Radiator out would be good time to change water pump and thermostat.

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow
2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

Chum lee

Albuquerque, NM

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Posted: 04/28/23 09:45am

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A lot depends on how well the vehicle is maintained. (using the correct coolant at the proper % and changing it on schedule) If original, your vehicle has a heavy duty truck radiator installed which is generally good until the day it's not good, which depends on the above. If mine, I would keep a sharp eye on the radiator, belts, hoses, (especially the upper radiator hose) water pump seal, fan clutch, and the coolant expansion tank (which tends to crack) at +-15 years and beyond.

Although it does happen, cooling system components rarely fail catastrophically without warning. If you see/hear/smell leaks, bulging, cracks, grinding, squealing, overtemps or variability on the temp gauge, STOP IMMEDIATELY, and figure out why. IMO, it would be a good idea to source, price, and check the availability of the major components now so that you don't get blindsided in the near future.

To get an idea of the condition inside your radiator, look through the open cap and at the opaque plastic walls of the coolant expansion tank. If the inside of the tank is coated with rust, scum, and other lovely unmentionables, chances are your radiator is too.

Chum lee

* This post was edited 04/28/23 08:46pm by Chum lee *

olfarmer

Iowa

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Posted: 04/30/23 07:42pm

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I don't know, I have a 2001 with a P32 chassis, aprox 30k miles with no problems, but I also have a 1937 chevrolet with the original radiator with no problems, also a 1948 chevrolet with the original radiator with no problems. I have owned both for over 40 years and just keep good coolant in them. They must have made them good back then!

Ed & Ruby & the 2 cats
2001 Winnebago Brave 30W
7.4 gas Work Horse Chassis
99 Jeep Grand Cherokee

RLS7201

Beautyful Downtown Gladstone, MO

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Posted: 04/30/23 07:51pm

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If your MH engine doesn't over heat now, I would leave the radiator alone. The radiator in my 95 F53 is original.

Richard

95 Bounder 32H F53 460
2013 CRV Toad
2 Segways in Toad
First brake job
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Gjac

Milford, CT

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Posted: 05/04/23 06:49am

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Does your radiator overheat now when climbing hills, or idling on a hot summer's day? You can check it with a cheap IF gun from HF by taking temperature reading from the top to the bottom in a 4 in grid pattern. Cold spots would indicate a blockage. Pay attention to the area in front of the fan clutch, a radiator guy told me years ago that if they clog, they tend to clog there first. There should be a change of temperature readings from the top to the bottom of 30 or more degrees showing that your radiator is cooling correctly.