BigDog1333

Durand Michigan

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Haven't seen posts about destination RVs.
When power goes out a/c thermostats don't reset. Therefore I have to reset manually.
How do I add 12 volt auxiliary to my power supply source?
I guess I didn't explain completely. This destination rv has no batteries installed. Just a converter from 120v.
Just like all RVs, lights,.thermostats and fans run on 23v.
Are all destination RVs like this?
* This post was
edited 04/30/23 01:21pm by BigDog1333 *
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SAR Tracker

Central Oregon

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I guess the first question would be: What items on the RV are 12v powered? Thermostats in a stick built house are run off a transformer, so they're not really 12v. Lights? Fridge? Water heater? If they are not 12v, then you'll have to have an INVERTER to change the battery power to 110v. And you'll have to have a CONVERTER to charge the battery(ies).
Rusty & Cheryl
2011 F250 2WD 6.2L Gasser
2008 Weekend Warrior FB2100
"Common sense is in spite of, not the result of, education" - Victor Hugo (1802-1885)
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joebedford

Home for the summer.

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My RVs batteries are in parallel with the 12V converter.
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BigDog1333

Durand Michigan

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Please read my edited post.
This rv has no batteries just a converter.
Meant 12v not 23v. Typo
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12th Man Fan

Flower Mound , Texas

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Are you sure you have an inverter and not a converter? sorry I read your post wrong. just ignore this post.
2014 GMC Duramax 4X4 DRW Crew
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wa8yxm

Davison Michigan (East of Flint)

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This like the 2nd time I've seen "Destination RV"
IS that like a park model. NO fresh tank. No waste tank Designed to be put on a site and left there? If so then it's designed to always be plugged in and from a "House" standpoint needs not have a battery.
Now from a Towing standpoint... Depending on the weight it may not need aux brakes (Trailer brakes) or it might have a surge brake system that also does not need electrical power... IF it has electric brakes.. then it needs an emergency brake battery.. but only if it has electric brakes.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
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time2roll

Southern California

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BigDog1333 wrote: Please read my edited post.
This rv has no batteries just a converter.
Meant 12v not 23v. Typo Yes. Need to add a battery. As mentioned above... in parallel with the 12v converter is best.
Trouble is where to put the battery. A low cost flooded battery needs venting and there might be no compartment. I recommend a lithium battery to avoid the venting issue.
https://www.us.sokbattery.com/product-page/sok-12v100ah-lifepo4-battery
https://www.renogy.com/12v-100ah-smart-lithium-iron-phosphate-battery/
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BigDog1333

Durand Michigan

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Problem is how connect the batteries in parallel to existing 12v system. I'll see if I can find a schematic for my rv.
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pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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BigDog 133,
If the existing converter is not intended as a battery charger it may need to be upgraded or replaced.
Look at the system as if it were an uninterruptible power supply. You want the thermostat to work when the 120 volt power blips or baffs out?
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.
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time2roll

Southern California

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BigDog1333 wrote: Problem is how connect the batteries in parallel to existing 12v system. I'll see if I can find a schematic for my rv. Remove the covers around the converter and the stack of 12v fuses and get some pictures and post them up.
http://photoposting.is-great.net/?i=3
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