 |
|
|
|
ScandentTrek
Oregon Coast
New Member
Joined: 08/23/2023
View Profile
 Offline
|
Hey folks! Long time reader, first post!
So we've lived full-time in our 1997 Fleetwood Mallard 30ft for almost 4 years. Until recently we were plugged in at a full-time RV park and had no electrical issues.
We recently moved to a new location (MIL's house) with no 30amp connection. We're plugged into the house (15amp house plug with appropriate dogbone converter plug and surge protector) and while we plan to be here for a while (4 months or more), we aren't sure if adding a 30amp plug is in the future.
Since we got here we've been having a new and odd electrical issue.
Our on-demand water heater (DC) started turning on and off randomly, causing it to beep at unexpected times. Sometimes it actually flickers so quickly it doesn't beep, but we can see the display flashing on and off. We also noticed that our range fan (on the same circuit) has similar power fluctuations, causing the speed to rise and drop rhythmically. None of our other DC appliances have this issue. None of our AC appliances are having an issue. We've even been able to run our AC unit through these heat waves.
We discovered that if we turn off our converter, we don't have this problem. Without the converter, everything runs smoothly, although of course this slowly drains the battery.
Now, we tried changing the outlet we are plugged into, not using a GFCI outlet in case that's the issue, but it didn't make a difference.
Our battery is still charging nicely, and the converter seems to be in working order. On battery power only, everything works perfectly. Turn the converter on and eventually, some hours later (but not immediately), the flickering starts again. Turn the converter off, and immediately the flickering stops and everything is good.
I don't want to do too much guessing, but I'm wondering if there is an issue with the converter when it goes into maintenance mode after the battery is fully charged again. Or this is a problem with using 15amp shore power instead of 30amp? Possibly the battery?
Has anyone had a similar issue? How would we go about troubleshooting this?
We're just praying it's not a problem with the wiring behind the walls. Thanks in advance!
1996 30' Fleetwood Mallard
Full-timers for 4 years on the Oregon Coast.
See my DIY renovation at https://webuilditourway.com/
|
enblethen
Moses Lake, WA
Senior Member
Joined: 01/05/2005
View Profile
Offline
|
It could be dirty battery connections.
What is make and model of your converter?
How old are the coach batteries?
Do you have a voltmeter? Check the converter output for voltage. Operate the coach battery disconnect and see if voltage increase. If it does batteries could be failing.
Verify AC voltage at receptacle.
Doubt whether it is a concealed wiring issue.
Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow
2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker
|
bgum
South Louisiana
Senior Member
Joined: 02/22/2006
View Profile
Offline
|
I can't figure out how you're doing all that on 15 amps. That circuit is over loaded.
|
ScandentTrek
Oregon Coast
New Member
Joined: 08/23/2023
View Profile
Offline
|
Converter is a MagneTek Series 6300A Power Center - original to the trailer.
No idea about the battery. It was on the trailer when we bought it and the info has flaked off.
How do I check the output of the converter? I've opened it up and looked inside, but I'm not sure where to put the voltmeter. There are a variety of different connections and wires in there.
|
ScandentTrek
Oregon Coast
New Member
Joined: 08/23/2023
View Profile
Offline
|
I found the owner's manual for the converter, with troubleshooting steps included.
https://www.hayseed.net/~jpk5lad/RV%20Information/MagnaTek%20Pwr%20Converter/RV%20Binder1.pdf
It has a diagram for testing the converter output, so I'll do that in a minute. I can't shut off the shore power without losing our Starlink, so I'm waiting for a better time.
I just tested my battery and the voltage is 13.8 when the converter is On, and 13.3 when the converter is Off. As I stood there with the multimeter attached, the voltage slowly dropped from 13.3 to 13.1 in about a minute, with the converter off, slowly losing voltage.
* This post was
edited 08/23/23 06:26pm by ScandentTrek *
|
|
|
cooldavidt
Vancouver
Full Member
Joined: 04/11/2016
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
Offline
|
your battery sounds like it is quite old. If so it probably doesn't have much capacity. Did you test it when it was hooked up? You need to test it unconnected to get a good idea..
You need to look at the load capacity. A shop can do that.
https://purkeys.net/load-testing-vehicle-batteries-in-three-steps/#:~:text=Take%20the%20rated%20CCA%20of,you%20let%20the%20load%20off.
It doesn't sound quite safe to me.
|
MFL
Midwest
Senior Member
Joined: 11/28/2012
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
Offline
|
bgum wrote:I can't figure out how you're doing all that on 15 amps. That circuit is over loaded.
^This...running the AC alone on a 15A circuit, would be a heavy load. Any additional electrical load should trip the breaker. The converter charger is likely overloading, so helps to shut it off.
To be there that long, a 30 amp circuit, with 10/2 minimum wire would be a wise investment. I used 8/2 to run 75'.
Jerry
.jpg)
|
ScandentTrek
Oregon Coast
New Member
Joined: 08/23/2023
View Profile
Offline
|
MFL wrote:bgum wrote:I can't figure out how you're doing all that on 15 amps. That circuit is over loaded.
^This...running the AC alone on a 15A circuit, would be a heavy load. Any additional electrical load should trip the breaker. The converter charger is likely overloading, so helps to shut it off.
To be there that long, a 30 amp circuit, with 10/2 minimum wire would be a wise investment. I used 8/2 to run 75'.
Jerry
We haven't had an issue with the breakers tripping. Our AC unit is as old as the trailer and fairly small.
How would using too much AC power (not enough to trip the breaker) cause the converter charger to overload? I would think the breakers (in the house or in the trailer) would trip first before any kind of overload could occur.
|
ScandentTrek
Oregon Coast
New Member
Joined: 08/23/2023
View Profile
Offline
|
The converter troubleshooting manual revealed that the converter is operating within specs and the charger is operating within specs.
HOWEVER. When I re-connected all the DC fuses after doing the converter test, the voltage shot up from the expected 13V to 17V. The troubleshooting manual indicated this could be a Battery Overcharge issue and directed me to the Battery Overcharge troubleshooting tree. Unfortunately, I need a "true RMS" voltmeter (which I don't have) to complete the troubleshooting tree on the Battery Overcharge.
But it also tells me to get the battery load tested and replace it if defective. I'll go ahead and get that battery tested in the meantime while I track down the right kind of voltmeter to borrow.
We also decided to clean the ground wire connection on the trailer frame, in case that was causing the DC current to flicker.
Unfortunately, the bolt was so rusted that it actually just broke off. So now we need to... drill a new bolt hole into the frame to reconnect all the ground wires to? I love how trying to fix one problem creates/reveals other problems and the repair job just balloons, don't you?
Has anyone tackled adding a new ground to the frame before?
|
cooldavidt
Vancouver
Full Member
Joined: 04/11/2016
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
Offline
|
use a bigger bolt
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
