TheBeans
Orting, WA
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We're getting our new rig ready for it's shake-down trip and we turned the fridge on to pre-chill and it started to beep and a light flashed. This is a 2-wway Dometic of some sort (don't have the manual in front of me). We're trying to run the fridge with electricity (gas is off) and the check light goes on and beeping after about 30 seconds. The check light from what we understand is to alert for no gas. Why would the check light go off with electricity only?
So, we've done all the usual stuff to remedy this situation and nothing is working. Anyone have any suggestions that might help? We'll be calling the dealer on Monday morning if we can't get this figured out but I thought I'd tap the knowledge here too.
* This post was
edited 09/09/23 12:34pm by TheBeans *
Wendy & Darrell
2014 Cougar Half-Ton 21RBSWE
2020 Ford F150
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Mfan
Otsego,Mi
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Check power hi
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MFL
Midwest
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Are you plugged into shore power electric? Do your outlets work?
You say "gas is off" meaning shut off at propane tanks, or fridge is not set to gas?
If shore power electric is not being supplied, fridge will default to gas. Are you sure your fridge is plugged into its proper outlet? Did you test fridge outlet to confirm power?
Jerry
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TXiceman
Bryan, TX
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A gas/Electric RV fridge has to have 120 VAC to operate from electric for the heater. If you do not have 120 VAC shore power, the fridge controls run from 12 VDC and the fridge from propane. Turn on the propane.
Ken
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2023 Cougar 22MLS, toted with a 2022, F150, 3.5L EcoBoost, Crewcab, Max Tow, FORMER Full Time RVer. Travel with a standard schnauzer and a Timneh African Gray parrot
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TheBeans
Orting, WA
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We're plugged into shore power and tested to make sure that it was working by turning on lights and the microwave and everything works as it should. We set the fridge to AUTO and pressed ON and what we got was the flashing CHECK light and beeping. According to Dometic, a beeping noise means the doors are ajar, so we double-checked those and we evern double-checked to make sure that none of the shelves or drawers were blocking the doors in any way. Since the fridge couldn't connect to SP (couldn't find it/couldn't receive it) it transitioned over to LP and worked just fine. We checked all plugs and fuses and all look good. We even tried switching out the SP power cord to a more heavy-duty one that we had and that didn't make any difference either.
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nickthehunter
Midwest
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The fridge should be plugged into an outlet behind the fridge (access is usually from outdoors behind a panel). Did you check that outlet for 120V or to ensure the fridge was plugged in?
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MFL
Midwest
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^^ This is what I was saying in my post above. A new unit, the fridge should work, so likely something simple, like mentioned.
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Garry&Gayle
Hemet, Ca.
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It is because you set to AUTO it' looking for gas also, set it to AC only.
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trailer_newbe
Tucson
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Actually when you set it to “Auto” the logic reverts to 120V by default. It will only switch to propane if the 120V goes away.
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opnspaces
San Diego Ca
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nickthehunter wrote:The fridge should be plugged into an outlet behind the fridge (access is usually from outdoors behind a panel). Did you check that outlet for 120V or to ensure the fridge was plugged in?
As above, did you check for 120v at the refrigerator outlet?
2001 Suburban 4x4. 6.0L, 4.10 3/4 ton
2005 Jayco Jay Flight 27BH
1986 Coleman Columbia Popup.
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