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Open Roads Forum  >  Towing

 > Installed Dual Cam Today

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Kusani

Tennessee

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Posted: 10/06/02 06:02pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Bsmith:

Thanks for the update and glad it is working as it should. [emoticon]

Take care.

john b

anywhere USA!

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Posted: 01/17/03 01:31pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

bsmith.
To answer two of your statements. The part about your steering all the time and the sway control wanting to continue in the turn. Both of these are normal responses when you have the control set too tight!


2001 F 350 CC PSD 373 rear,auto
RBW X16 slider,Bedsaver,Prodigy,Fold A Cover,Pressure Pro!
2011 Crossroads Cruiser cf32mk Patriot edit. 5th wheel Fibreglass and all the goodies necessary,Dish,comfy loungers,and a nickel to spend,
Mr & Mrs and the PUP.

BarneyS

S.E. Lower Michigan

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Posted: 01/17/03 05:18pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

John, You may be correct but at least now I don't have to worry about it anymore. [emoticon]


2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch (Sold)
Not towing now.
Former tow vehicles were 2016 Ram 2500 CTD, 2002 Ford F250, 7.3 PSD


Hampy

Riverview, NB, Can.

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Posted: 01/17/03 09:09pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BSmith: to take your cam adjustment one step further, once you tow your trailer home and after a day or two, take a look at the stirrups as they should be a little rusted. This should give you a real good indication if they are not running true. You should be able to see where the rust spots are. If the rust is not perfectly centered on your saddles, then you need to re-adjust.The groaning noise you hear , only at take-off, is the rust wearing off, after that it should be fine. For the record I decided to run both dual cam and friction bar. Doesn't hurt to be more safe than sorry!!!

Hampy


2002 F150\7700#, SC, 5.4lt, 3.73, 7 lug, Extang Tonneau, Lucerix mirrors, 3 gauge pillar pod, Tekonsha Prodigy, Reese Dual Cam + Friction Bar.

2002 Sunline, T2753 27' Solaris SE, fibreglass, 27 options, rubber ride.

Jayflight31BHS

Bowling Green, Ohio USA

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Posted: 06/22/03 12:04pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I too installed the Reese HP dual cam today, Sunday 6/22. It was fairly easy and I did have to move the brake breakaway switch, but thats it. I had read somewhere that if you did not use an air wrench to install the self-tapping bolts it would proly be hard to do. I found that untrue and the self-tappers installed very easily using a std 3/4 box end wrench. It took about 1 1/2 hours all told. However, being a newbie I am not entirely sure I have it adjusted correctly. It seems like I feel my trailer 'back there' a little more than I used too. Is this an indication of anything? Should I go up another link on the chain? Any advice on how to guage the right amount of umph required to put the bars in place would be appreciated.

We will be at the Soo Locks campground next week, so if you hear that the Soo Locks were drained or broken I'm sure it will be due to one of my kids.

Thx


Cliff, Kris,& Lexi 8, Cliff 3, John 3, Tony 22 Mo.



BarneyS

S.E. Lower Michigan

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Posted: 06/22/03 05:24pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi Jayflight,
The amount of "umph" ([emoticon]) required to lift the snap up brackets is not the correct way to measure if you have enough links taken up. What you need to do is measure your wheel wells, front and rear, then take up the links and see if the truck settles evenly front and rear. If the rear settles more, take up another link. If the front settles more, take up one less. I found on mine (not HP version) that I had to take up one more link due to the hight of the stirrup like thing the chains are attached to.

Also, if you will use your tongue jack to raise the rear of the truck along with the front of the trailer with the trailer coupled on it will be very easy to snap up the chains. I can do mine without using a bar - just my hands. A power jack certainly helps with this but a manual one works just as well - only more effort.
If you do not do this, then MUCH umph is required! (or a very long piece of pipe)
Hope this helps you out a bit.
Barney


*This Message was edited on 22-Jun-03 05:26 PM by bsmith0337*


Jayflight31BHS

Bowling Green, Ohio USA

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Posted: 06/22/03 07:40pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Yes Bsmith that does help, thank you. I'll measure and see what it looks like. Thx, Cliff


Stressor

Whitefish Bay, Wisconsin

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Posted: 01/20/03 05:33pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Like Wannabe and Hampy, I run both the Dual Cam and the Friction bar. One day, when I am feeling real brave, I am going to leave the friction bar of, just to see what happens. Of course, now that I have a new truck, I have to readjust everything. Darn.


Milton Findley (and Kerene)

A small piece of my mind...

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location: Allegheny Forest

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Posted: 06/19/03 08:59am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Just got my DC kit to convert the straight springbars, and have yet to install it. Can I still back-up or do forward sharp turns (when necessary) at a sharp angle with the DC or not? Nothing should be hitting the A-frame if bars and all are set properly, right? Usually I try to avoid sharp fwd/rev turns since it's tough on the TT tires as well, unless they are in loose gravel/dirt.


ED

I'm the lucky one; my wife is the one who married the idiot!! ">

2002 Ram 2500HD Quadcab 4x4 - 8L V-10 - Fisher MM plow - Tekonsha Prodigy
2001 28' Hornet Reese Dual Cam


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