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Open Roads Forum  >  Fifth-Wheels

 > 5'er truck bed 7 pin plug

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jkilroy

Pennsylvania

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Posted: 08/02/03 08:26am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Is everyone else putting the electrical connectors in the truck beds for 5'ers or using the existing factory plugs by the bumpers?


2003 Chevy Silverado 2500HD
2013 Keystone Cougar 28SGS">
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whiteeye42

Rock Springs Wyoming

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Posted: 08/02/03 08:31am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

hi have mine mounted in the side of the bed on the left side about a foot from the tailgate i think it works much better that way you don't get it hunk up on the tailgate when you make a sharp turn hope this helps


Me,Wife two boys and two dogs
2008 Dodge Ram Quad Cab 4x4 DRW 6.7 cummins
2008 Jayco Eagle 341 RLQS 37' with B&W turnover ball & companion hitch
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sneaks

Encinitas CA

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Posted: 08/02/03 08:37am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

90% of the 5th wheel pickups I've seen have it on the left side just forward of the wheel well. Works for me.


Don, Mary, and Sammy the Wonder Dog.
Lazy Daze 23 1/2 TK, sometimes towing a 2005 C-Dory,
5th wheel RV'er 1975 - 2005


TerriAnn

Fort Worth TX, USA

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Posted: 08/02/03 08:44am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ours is on the inside of the bed on the driver's side back by the tailgate.


Dennis and Terri Reed
2007 Ford F150 Supercrew
2008 Jayco 32BHDS travel trailer
2003 Expedition
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1 girl 26 a son in law and a grandson 2
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jkilroy

Pennsylvania

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Posted: 08/02/03 09:51am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks everyone for the info. Next question is, do you use a hole saw and drill the hole in the bed and splice it into the existing harness?

mowermech

Billings, MT

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Posted: 08/02/03 10:35am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Yes to both. A holesaw is the only way to go. You can splice the light wiring into the existing harness, and maybe the brake if your truck is prewired for trailer brakes, but I always route the battery charging lead (hot lead) up under the hood with 10 gauge wire, and install a continuous duty relay there connected to the ignition, so the trailer batteries are only getting power when the ignition switch is in the "RUN" position. Makes it nearly impossible to discharge the truck battery into the trailer. Some will say it isn't necessary, but it doesn't hurt anything, and I like it that way. A continous duty relay is usually cheaper than a solid state battery isolator, and does the same job with minimal current draw.


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Derry

Largo, Florida USA

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Posted: 08/02/03 02:54pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

seldom see anyone with their fiver cable run to the electrical below the rear bumper,, when I had my hitch installed by a Reese dealer, part of the package was a clean cap/plug install just aft of the left wheel,, he encased all below wiring in a plastic wire run jacket,,

I always tie my cap to the plug with a couple wraps of lite string even though the cap locks into the connector,, bad surprise if it ever comes loose,,

2003 Ford 250 HD, 7.3 PSD, crew cab, short bed, AMSOIL
1995 ALpenlite 33RK


[blue]2005 Ford F350 King Ranch, 6.0, SRW, LB, Crew Cab, 72 Gal fuel, Centramatics,, 1995 Alpenlite 33rk Tea Cup Poodle & Yorkie:) [img]http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v326/Derry/newtruck.jpg[/img]

Note: Due to invalid formatting, all formatting has been ignored.

jkilroy

Pennsylvania

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Posted: 08/02/03 04:55pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Jon, I'll take your word, from the looks of your signature we have alot in common. I am former navy, 7 years AD2, licensed A&P mechanic, worked for the airlines 3 years before 9/11, now I'm full-time EC-130 Flight Engineer for the Guard going to school to be a loadmaster on the "new" C-130J s. They don't have FE's. What is a continous duty relay and where can you get it?

GWMAYES

Albuquerque, NM

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Posted: 08/02/03 07:54pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

jkillinger,

If you're truck did not come with the FW wiring option (it will be a bundled up cable at the front edge of the pickup box, next to the frame rail) you can purchase that wiring option from the dealer. It's plug and play. It actually plugs into the trailer wiring harness just above the spare tire. It's really long.

A 2" metal hole saw works nicely for the Bargman 7 pin socket. I mounted mine just in front of the wheel well at about the two o'clock position (as viewed from the passenger side). There's a nice flat spot there. After I installed the socket on the end of the wiring harness, I completely filled the back of it with marine silicone. I've replaced too many of these things with the wires totally corroded.

Geo.


George in Albuquerque
2003 Silverado 2500HD ExtCab, ShortBed 4X4, Duramax/Allison, Jordan 2020 Brake Controller, Transfer Flow 45 Gal, Reese 16k Slider (converted to non-slider), Honda EU3000
2001 Sunnybrook 27RKFS

srigs

Maplewood, MN

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Posted: 08/02/03 10:11pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Here is a pick of how I did it.
[image]

Tapped into existing 7 prong plug for power and brake, did a standard T tap from Reese for 4 wire connection and ran them up the drivers side tail light pocket. Drilled a hole in my drop in bed liner for the rv plug and ran the wires through a hole in the top of the light pocket. Ran a new ground and did not have to drill the metal bed.

Just my 2 cents! [emoticon]


97 Dodge 2500 ClubCab Long Box, CTD 5.9, Auto, 3.55, 4X4, LT245x75x16 Yokohama Geolander HTs, Rancho 9000x, Putnum Lock n Load Gooseneck hitch, Prodigy, Pace Edward Roll Top, Mag-hytec tranny and diff pans, 10 disk cd changer and 120K miles

01 Trailet 2 horse slant load goose neck horse trailer, 5' short wall, AC, sink, bed, microwave. 7500 lbs with 2 horses.

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