Salesman's explanation rings somewhat hollow, as they often do. To the best of my knowledge, Michelin doesn't use nylon in the cords of either the LTX or the Rib (their two most likely tires in load range E). Nylon used to be known for flatspotting. I've owned LTX's; didn't like them at all, but it was for poor handling on a class B, not flatspotting. Ribs are all steel, I'm pretty sure.
I'd suspect less-than-perfect balance, a bent rim, or a lot of other less likely culprits.
Considering some Ford E-350's very real reputation for poor drivability in B's and C's, I'd be _very_ hesitant about buying one I couldn't take for a proper test drive my-own-dang-self. Please, do yourself a favor. See the class B forum's FAQ section about the importance of test driving on a 4-lane with fast-passing big rigs, and the importance of checking tire pressures first.
Jim, "Mo' coffee!"
AFAIK, the ignition voltage comes from the 120V windings, but that's a part I've never had reason to figure out (yet ;)). They'd need to step it up to around 10kV or more for a spark plug. Again AFAIK, there's no separate winding or magneto.
The reason there's a delay in your 120V is not in the generator. I think it's in the transfer switch. My Tiger hasn't got one, and the 120V inside is live as soon as the Onan starts. Some RV makers choose to set up a delay to be insure the Onan is up to speed before any load is applied, others trust the customer not to start the Onan with the A/C switched on.
Clear as mud, right? ;) I've been futzing about with these dang things for about 12 years & three 2800's now; it's been a long, slow learning curve with some dips along the way.
Jim, "Why do gas stations lock their restrooms? Are they afraid someone will sneak in and clean them?"
Today was a _beautiful_ day! Clear, 70 (started in the mid-30's), low humidity. Spent the day working on the greenway with a crew of 'alternate spring break' college students from VA & WVA. We cut up a _big_ ol' dang popular that fell into the creek last year, probably 70'-80 feet tall. Got part of it winched all the way out, and the rest winched onto the bank. Oh, one of the college kids on my crew of 4 was from Nepal, and had been in the US for all of two months!
The winch motor pulled the voltage in the truck so low that the engine stalled several times, even tho' I was rigged double line and had one of the girls sitting in the truck holding the brake and revving the engine. With just a few turns on the drum, that's nearly 16,000 lbs of pull. Yeee-haaaw! That was fun!!! I'm a tired boy tonight, tho'... Rehydrating and loafering now.
Tomorrow the weather will take it all back, and then some.... 65 in the daytime, falling to 25 overnight, gusts to 40-50 mph, wind chills to or below zero! I'll sharpen the chainsaw tomorrow morning, and prepare a gallon of fuel mix, then respool the winch cable, just in case a tree comes down. The Tiger's full of gas and 2/3's on LP, so it's ready as 'alternate housing' if needed.
They say the ancient Chinese detested change. A popular curse was, "May you live in interesting times." The weather has sure been 'interesting' this winter....
Jim, "When the chips are down, the buffalo is empty."
Blaino, not sure where you got the notion I meant to pull it thru the black access panel. The whole green box with black bottom has to come out complete, probably thru the compartment door opening in the van's skin. You may have to remove the door and door frame.
Jim, "Mo' coffee!"
g1g, the small Onans get their ignition voltage from the battery while they're cranking. But they switch over to self-generated voltage from the generator section when the start switch is let up. If they don't get it, they shut off. Failures can be caused by oil level sensor if fitted, rotor/stator issues, brushes, or control board / voltage regulator.
Jim, "Is your computer possessed? Try Exor.sys!"
The owner of Ujoint Offroad used to hang out on the Expedition Portal forums. His user name was (oddly enough ;)) Ujoint. A search there should turn him or his old posts up. I haven't been there lately, so this may be outdated. He is (or was) a local here in Asheville, but I haven't seen his pretty-darn-awesome Ford 4x4 van lately, either.
Good luck with it. Sounds like a costy but very fun project.
Jim, "It's bad luck to be superstitious."
A) I'd suggest installing a shorter bolt in any threaded socket in the driveway when not in use. It'll keep the trash out and make a minimal bump to go over.
B) The pic, from this afternoon's respooling. I used the camper as an 'anchor' and set the parking brake on the Toyota part-way to provide resistance, I had to rig double-line since my back lot isn't large enough to put the whole length of wire rope out. http://oi57.tinypic.com/2133lgm.jpg
You can see the squeegee handle. Push in under the wire, and pull up against the wire. From the scars, you can see that it's had some use. I prefer wood since I know it's soft enough not to damage the wire.
This 8K Warn is about 18 years old, tho' it hasn't been used a lot for the past 12 or so. It's on an early '95 Toyota 4x4 pickup that only has 70,000 miles on it.
Jim, "I've got furniture problems. My chest has fallen into my drawers."
Do you know if the dealer checked the windings with a meter by unplugging the big multiwire white connecter? If he just asked the symptoms and came up with that, you may be taken for a $$$ ride.
I ask because while that is the worst $$ way the gen can fail suddenly, there's at least one other way (voltage reg, easy fix, one hidden screw, about $250 part). And believe me, I know your frustration! They completely rebuilt the electrical part of mine under warranty due to a similar failure at _8_ hours. IIRC, Onan was billed about $1600 for that. That's when they left the bolt loose and left a mount out.
And yes, you may have a low oil float switch as retraite said. They discontinued that sometime in the past, but I don't have a clue as to when. And it _will_ give the same symptom. If you have an owner's manual, read the proper procedure for checking oil. Mine ('06) requires you to remove & wipe the dipstick, then set it on the hole, not screwed in, to check the level. Screwing it in before reading will give a false reading resulting in low oil.
And trust me, I'm not particularly wrench savvy, just persistent... ;)
Jim, "No, the other one."
55 & breezy here today. But the weather took a real bite out of me Saturday AM. I'd planned to take the RV downtown for a day of 'curb camping', to visit the main library (doing some research on an old hydroelectric site), people-watch, listen to some street music, and generally wander around. I'd packed everything for breakfast & lunch the night before, so just needed to carry the computer, a few books to be returned, and the cat out. The back steps are new... fresh boards last summer, and painted with 'Deckover' in the fall.
6 am, showered, got dressed, packed the laptop, went out the door. Hit the top step, and Ka-Bang! Went down in a heap... major pratfall! Hit on my rear and shoulders, and banged the back of my head. The dew had frozen overnight. The steps were as slick as greased owl snot on hot oiled glass. Glad there are only two steps! Sat on the ground for a minute, checking myself over. Nope, no broken bones. Picked myself up, went on to the camper, put the 'puter & stuff in. Went back in, harnessed the cat, and headed out again...
...and proceeded to take the same danged painful route to the ground again!!! Learned my lesson, gonna have at least one cup of coffee before going out the back door ever again. And going to repaint the steps, with some sand sprinkled in the wet paint.
Shoulders & neck are still a bit sore, backside is showing a few bruises, but all in all, I'm intact, un-concussed, and grateful to be so.
Hope all are getting along well.
Jim, "Old age comes at a bad time."
Jim, Beyond eBay & CraigsList, the only thing I can suggest for a used one is to call or send an email to the service department managers of various RV dealers in your area.
As far as a good tech goes, I used the then-new Cummins-Onan distributor/service center in Spartanburg SC when the Tiger's 2800 failed under warranty in 2006. I can't really recommend that route. I had to return to have a vital bolt in the governor linkage tightened about a month later. The original tech was no longer there. Years later when replacing the fuel pump, I found that he had also left out a vibration isolator the 1st time. They mailed it to me free, with no more proof than a phone call & an emailed photo. It didn't really change the noise & vibration, but it still left me with a bad taste.
I'll be glad to help you troubleshoot it if you want to try. There are 3 pretty simple things that are common failure points. None cost over $250-300 and a half-day of DIY work, tho' you do need to drop the box to get to at least one of them.
Jim, "Blessed is the end user who expects nothing, for he shall not be disappointed."
In the Navy, we used a fancy traveling guide system to ensure the cable laid on the drum in even layers on inhaul. Much too complicated, expensive, and heavy for civvie use. But these were 75 & 100 HP electro-hydraulic winches used for at-sea transfer of cargo.
A roller fairlead is good, but it won't do the job by itself. It mostly keeps the cable from chaffing on non-straight pulls.
I've had winches on 4x4's for over 30 years for fun and profit. I've always used a length of broomstick with my winches... usually the dumb end of a windshield squeegee, about 18" long. Angle it in on the side of the cable away from the direction you want to move the cable, under the cable. Lift up against the baseplate as you spool in. Change sides as needed. Not perfect, but you can usually get a pretty even lay. The cable should always be laid on under tension. Otherwise the outer layers may crush a spot on the layer below.
My 8K Warn on the Toyota needs respooling now, since I was rushed last time I used it to pull a poplar out of the creek on the greenway. Tomorrow would be a good day to respool it. I'll take a few pics, and see if I can post them sometime in the near future (learning to use my new smartphone).
I'm sure synthetic rope is fine, but I learned on steel, and know what it can do if it's not abused. If your cable was cutting thru leather gloves, sounds like it had been over-stressed or laid on unevenly in a hard pull. Once you start breaking strands, they form little fishhooks.
Jim, "I asked the woman in the bookstore where the self-help section was. She said that telling me would defeat the purpose."
Aha! I see from your pics that you have top access to the Onan, as well as side access. I didn't know that. I'd still expect it to be a side-pull for removal, but possibly not. At the least, disconnecting/reconnecting should be snap.
With such low hours, you can expect some issues. I expect you'll end up buying a new carb ($200-$250; probably non-rebuildable), since Onan strongly recommends a 2-hour run at 1/2 load to keep the gas from forming varnish in the fine passages It also dries the condensation out of the generator section (iron laminations will rust); if it's lived in a really dry climate, that may not be an issue.
Jim, "Mo' coffee!"
X2 on I-77. One long grade almost at the VA-NC line, down the eastern continental divide. it has great views much of the way down if the weather's clear (drive, and let the copilot record it for later ;)). Nice welcome station in NC just past the bottom; I've overnighted there several times a few years back. Traffic thickens bunches after the I-40 crossing every time I've been that way.
Jim, "Statistics means never having to say you're certain."
I've got a 'cheap' Remington electric pole saw. I once backed the camper down into the back yard among the trees of the little church I attend, and used the Onan to power it. A 70' poplar had broken part-way off in a big windstorm, and was hanging over our 'nature trail'. The extension pole was just long enough to reach the break, so I could cut thru it at the hinge point and drop the top of the tree safely onto the ground.
I then went home & got the pickup with the 'real' chainsaw and winch, and removed it from the trail. That lil' Remington pulls a heck of a starting surge, maybe due to the chain friction. Almost bogged the Onan 2800 down every time I pulled the trigger, but it kept going. I cut the tree up later and gave the wood to one of the girls who also goes there.
Jim, "If the zombies chase us, I'm tripping you!"
You've probably got an Onan 2800? Mounted above the floor in the 1st gen 210's, rather than underhung like a 190 IIRC?
Here's a pic of the Onan 2800 in an '08 Tiger a'building, before the coach is married:
This should be like yours. I don't think they've changed it. The connections are on the left side to the back as you look at the access door. In order from left to right in the pic, fuel line, 12V for starter, remote start switch wiring harness, and 120V output lines. You'll probably have to unbolt it, slide it part way out, and reach in over the top to get to the connections. Be sure the battery is disconnected.
The box is probably held down by 4 bolts thru the floor into weld nuts inside the bottom of the box. To get mine out of the Tiger, I had to remove the trim strip around the door to get to the door frame screws, and remove the entire door & frame. Not sure how RT did it on the 210. Easiest to build a platform that can sit right outside the compartment to move it onto. IIRC, it weighs about 125 lbs. One man can move it; I used ramps to slide mine down out of the Tiger.
I'd suggest getting the installation manual from Onan. It'll tell you how much clearance is required for safe cooling. Add some sound deadening if possible (1" rigid fiberglass insulation can be sourced from heating supply places). I cut .2" sheet rubber 'washers' for mine to sit on, and used blue Loctite on the bolts so they didn't have to be but just snug; this'll cut some vibration. Don't block the cooling air entrance or exit (around the exhaust pipe).
You probably have room to add the Onan resonator in the tailpipe. Make sure the outer end of the tailpipe isn't rigidly restrained. It needs to be able to shake a bit to allow the Onan vibration isolation to work.
Good luck with it! BTW, I think the extra length is OEM GM, not added by RT. I've seen maybe two older G-30's as plain vans that I think were that long.
Jim, "Old age comes at a bad time, but it beats the alternatives."
The only thought provoking idea I see in this thread is the instruments played by that girl.
Ain't banjo and kazoo the norm? for rhe region ?
Yep. Just like everybody in your region wears untanned hides, fringed leather jackets, and carries a buffalo rifle....
Jim, "Mo' coffee!"
I'd go with Onan. If nothing else, there's a much larger knowledge base about them here and on the tech issues forum, including a few Onan techs.
Hopefully the unit came from the factory "generator ready", with transfer switch, 120V power & 12V starter wiring, and maybe fuel line already installed. You'd need to buy the generator, hanger plates, start panel & maybe its wiring, and tailpipe (suggest adding an Onan resonator from the get-go). Onan is dam' proud of their stuff, and they price it accordingly, even the small items. I think this board collectively used to figure about $3,500-4000 for a new 2.5 or 2.8 installation including parts, but that's been several years ago.
Jim, "Happy as a carp in a septic tank."
Carry a tire gauge that will accurately read up to 80 psi when you take a test drive. The first and cheapest thing in driving issues is tire pressure. You won't go far wrong by setting the tires' cold pressure to what's on the door post. Over inflation to the '80 psi' on the sidewall, especially the front tires, can have a bad impact on driveability.
Jim, "Mo' coffee!"