Elias....You have your numbers all wrong. Your front and rear gross axle ratings equal your gross vehicle rating. You have 12000 and 20000 equaling 31000, when it should be 32000. You then need to subtract your unloaded weight which is 26100. This gives you 5900 pounds of cargo capacity (fuel, water, people, food etc).
Since when did the sum of the axle ratings equal the GVWR?
I want to see someone load a vehicle that precisely!
Many coaches are spec'd that way, just look at the manufacturer web sites. Has nothing to do with how they're actually loaded -- these are capacities we're talking about.
2chiefsRus is correct about the Baltimore tunnels. If you go through towing or in a RV they will stop you on the assumption that you have propane onboard. Turned off doesn't matter. It is a large fine and to make matters worse it is a "must appear" ticket. No paying by mail.
I've been through the I-95 tunnel with our Motorhome about 1/2 dozen times and haven't had an issue. The statute claims no bottled propane gas in excess of 10lbs. Propane on our Motorhome is in a mounted tank, like a gasoline tank, not a propane bottle. We don't have EZ Pass. The toll taker took our money without question or concern.
You got lucky, it sounds like the tollbooth attendant wasn't paying attention. As the law (and lots of signage, for those who read it, says), NO PROPANE IN THE TWO BALTIMORE TUNNELS, PERIOD. Every time this discussion comes up, there is someone who dissects the regulation and claims it doesn't apply to RVs, and someone who says "they didn't stop me." So I guess the answer is, go ahead, do it if you want, and if you get caught and ticketed, tell them that some guy on an RV forum told you it was OK.
We're on our second Thor DP, a 2014 Tuscany 40RX, after owning a 2008 Mandalay 43A for 4 years. We're totally satisfied with Thor Motor Coach's quality and performance, and especially their exceptional factory service center.
For what we wanted, we think that Thor provides the best bang for the buck, and we have never had any serious problems with either coach.
Do you have a generator (or for that matter a hydronic heating system)? Those will usually cut off around 1/4 tank or so, a safety measure to preserve the last gallons for driving. One more reason to never go below 1/4 tank.
Bolts that come loose normally do dso because they were under torqued or over torqued and then continued to stretch. My guess on the tear outs being discussed is that the base plate attachment points are being stressed during turns. If a RV has a long over hang it is not unusual for the front tires of the toad to go in to scuff. As the tail swings the arc of the toad becomes tighter than the turn angle available in the steering linkage. When this occurs the load at the base plates increase dramatically. I have seen this scuff scenario a few times in smaller gas stations and it is most likely what is causing the "tear out" issues some RVers complain about.
Wow -- that's the most logical theory I've heard yet. I don't have the expertise to judge, but that makes a lot of sense to me.
I think I'll go check my baseplate bolts now ...
Google Motor Home Specialist
x2. Find them here - they will have a price posted on the web site that's about 25% off MSRP, but a phone call will get you their sale price, which is generally several % lower. We bought from them last year, and found them very starightforward and easy to do business with. One caveat though -- they are not generous with trade allowance, so if you have a trade, you might want to sell it yourself.
BTW: Where do your safety chains attach???? I'm hoping they attach or wrap around the frame, rather than just to the baseplate as traditionally done.
My point is to everyone, if the safety chain is not wrapped around or attached directly to the frame, it is not a safety chain, it is a joke. Anyone who spends much time on any RV forum can remember posts of baseplates coming loose or breaking. This seems to happen every so often.
On my Blue Ox Aventa and baseplate, the detachable safety cables do attach to loops on the front of the baseplate, but (when correctly installed) another set of cables secure the baseplate to the toad's frame. I've heard tales on this forum of baseplate installations that skipped that step.
Just caught up with this thread, and as much as I enjoyed the bickering, I have to make an observation. Other than factual errors (mostly minor) on the part of some of the posters, I think the biggest cause of disagreement here, like on so many threads, is many members' assumption that every unit made by X (in this case Aqua-Hot) works just like theirs. In this case, as many of us are aware, some AH units have the "motoraid" feature, while others (like mine) don't, and AH has used various types of coolants over the years.
The solution? Instead of saying "they all work like this," just say "mine works like this" (unless you're such an expert that you know the entire production history of the product). And/or, just take a chill pill, and don't get your feathers ruffled every time someone thinks (or knows) they know better than you!
You mean cetane, not octane. Opposite measures, more or less -- octane is a measure of resistance to pre-ignition (knocking), relevant to gasoline, while cetane measures combustibility, relevant to diesel engines. (These are rough definitions, which someone will undoubtedly correct me for.)
The same diesel engine could probably pull 10,000 pounds more than the gasser but the test just shows that all things being EQUAL, the gasser will out perform the diesel
I got a chuckle from this. "Performance" encompasses far more than speed or ET in the 1/4 mile.
My preferred "performance" test would be to load them up EQUALLY with another 10-20,000 lbs or so (getting closer to the type of performance you need in a motor home) and drive them up a long grade in the Rockies, like approaching Eisenhower Tunnel from the west. Let's see which one gets to the top first.
there is no shortage of propane in the salt domes around Mont Bellvue Texas.
it takes trucks, pipelines , trains etc. to get it up north , and the industry loves any reason it can invent to jack up prices and screw everyone they can !
We are less than 200 miles from the main source of propane in the US and we are being hosed as well .
Actually, propane stocks are low for this time of year nationwide, including at Mont Belvieu, but most critically so in the Midwest. The U.S. Energy Information Administration (my former employer) publishes the data weekly, here.
Most of the propane produced is a byproduct of oil refining. It isn't easy to turn the switch up and down to produce more or less. It is a temporary shortage due to the hard winter which we were told was not going to happen much anymore. I hope the Super Bowl can escape the blizzard and heavy snow.
Actually, more than half of U.S. propane production comes from natural gas processing. But that's even less possible to turn up and down to align with demand.
And who told you we wouldn't have harsh winters anymore?
We just purchased from them in August 2013, and the experience was very good all around, except for the 104-degree temperatures at the time. This was our fourth RV, so we've dealt with lots of other dealers over the years, and these guys are very professional and knowledgeable, though unquestionably profit-oriented. Their prices on new units are pretty much unbeatable, though they will want to go low on your trade as well, so they are best-suited for a buyer that wants a new unit and doesn't have a trade.
Most of the complaints I've heard about them on these forums have to do with used, and especially consignment, RVs. I suspect those same units might have been a problem at other dealers too, but who knows.
They have more units on the lot than any dealer I've seen, including Lazy Days. They'll loan you a golf cart, feed you lunch, and still no pressure. Even if you're not looking, drop by if you're in the D/FW area -- it's a dealership worth seeing for yourself.
Had the exact same situation, only a little worse, a few years back -- returned from Thor factory service in Elkhart to our then-home in Maryland, through a snowstorm that shut down the Pennsylvania Turnpike for awhile. Needless to say, the coach was coated with road salt etc., and I made a token attempt at rinsing it off before getting back to it in the spring.
What I found a couple of months later was that salt had gotten into every exterior nook and cranny, particularly underneath. The pin locks for the Blue Ox (which I normally leave attached) had completely frozen with salt, and took a lot of soaking to free up. The towbar itself had frozen into the receiver, and took hours of hammering to remove. The latch to the propane compartment (open below) had frozen up, and required a lot of work to get to from underneath and fix. The entire undercarriage had way more rust than I recalled.
Bottom line -- I'd be less worried about your finish and wheels, and way more about all the areas above. Even if you can't get to a truck wash, you can remove, clean and/or lubricate lots of things that might suffer badly from salt incursion.
If you are a full-timer and don't own any anything else why carry an umbrella since your only exposure is your rv? I carry $500,000. liability and full-timers thru GMAC with 3 vehicles (car, truck and fifth wheel)for $1,500./yr. I also carry $300,000 liability thru Farm Bureau on some grazing land I own and rent which runs about $110./yr.
I disagree. Your only exposure is not just your RV. If you cause an accident with damages over your liability limits on your RV, they you are personally responsible, which is why an umbrella policy is needed in some cases.
An umbrella liability policy is there to protect you from anything (with exceptions, of course) that someone might sue you for. Vehicle accidents with damages exceeding your car or RV policy limits, or someone getting injured on your property, are only the obvious ones. You could accidentally start a fire, or injure someone while trying to give CPR. You could be sued for libel or slander. And do you own a gun? Think about the potential liability there.
To me, it's cheap peace of mind. If you don't have much, you might feel like you won't have much to lose, or wouldn't be a target for a lawsuit. But if you've spent your life working toward retirement, and don't want to be forced into poverty by a lawsuit in your golden years, make sure you have enough coverage.
Motorhome insurance with Progressive, everything else (including umbrella) with Allstate, but all handled by the same agent. I don't recall exactly how they handled it, but I do remember something about coordinating the liability limits, so that the umbrella picks up where the underlying policies max out. We went to $2 million on the umbrella this time around, I think. Even at several hundred $$ a year, it was cheap peace of mind -- I like knowing I (probably) won't lose all my retirement assets in a lawsuit.