For the years before the Sprinter chassis, PW's have an inch less headroom than the Roadtreks because Rt drops the floor an inch. 72" compared to 73". I'm 6'2" and got really tired of always having to crouch in the Rt. Because of that I wouldn't even consider the PW. Sold the Rt for something with more headroom.
I have no idea what a Fiesta Class B is.
Another reason I'm recommending the Goodyear Adventure with Kevlar is the stiffer sidewall, plus because of the Kevlar they are lighter, and run cooler than steel belted tires. We all know heat gobbles up tire tread.
It's hard to get the Michliens fans to consider any other brand. I've ran the MS2, V steels, and both were really good tires, but for all types of driving, highway, rain, snow, dirt, my opinion is Goodyear Adventures are a better tire. I know they are an AT tire and that alone turns people off because AT's have always been noisy on the highway, not so with the Goodyears, there as quiet or quiter than other strictly highway tires.
Note: The Advenures (60,000 mi. warranty) with Kevlar are replacing the Silent Armors.
They generator runs off the fuel tank, so you can't run it dry unless a fuel cut-off valve is installed between the gas tank, and gen-set. The fuel cut should only be used if it its impossible to exercise the the generator monthly, as it still needs to have the moisture evaporated internally.
Goodyear Wrangler All-Terrain Adventure with Kevlar Review
I have these on our SUV and they have been a great All Terrane tire, that rides smoother than many highway tires.
Consumer Reports gave them a high rating.
They also cost a little less than the Michelins.
They come in Load Range E with an extra layer of Kevlar added. They should definitely be a consideration for a Class B.
Side note: The one problem with buying tires from Costco is you can't make an appointment for tire service like rotations, it's first come first serve.
Check out Lance TT, I'm surprised they didn't show you some.
Lance factory tour.
For the size your looking for a negotiated Lance will run around $28,000, or a little more depending on options. Cost a little more, but there a good quality Trailer.
Was there other problems with the coach part, or is it just the MB chassis?
Roadtrek is not responsible for the chassis unless they did something that caused the problem. I dont see how you would have any case against Rt.
Have you talked with you insurance agent, they might be able to give you some info.
Stricter moderation certainly does not encourage participation. I grow weary of the thought police on some of them. If you want to check out a dead forum, go over to iRV2. It's basically now a class A only club, and most of the posts are people complaining they bought junk that the manufacturer or dealer won't stand behind (of course, the same people did zero research before they bought). Sad really.
With my B, I bought new and have had zero problems or warranty claims. It's fairly common with B's. So there isn't alot to talk about unless you are looking for a new rig, or modding one you have, or are buying new gear to outfit it.
Frankly, there is a much better Class B forum out there that is fairly well behaved and has a combo of new and old tech, high budget and low budget. I find it quite entertaining and suggest folks check it out. www.classbforum.com
But the other forum has a pretty small number of people posting to it, pretty easy to
You weren't here when this forum was really busy. Even Marko got his start here.
Didn't take long for this thread to take the op's post off topic. Not everyone likes to post something and then see their thread go off in another direction. I know I don't, but that's probably the reason I haven't posted here much in the last couple of years.
I don't know about newer Class B's but the older Rt's were pretty straight forward when it came to removing, and reinstalling the tank. Took me about 2 hrs. that was doing it the for the first time, I would think a dealer would be faster.
I'd say it's the proliferation and commonplace of $100,000+ Class B's. Same thing has happened to the truck camper market too(They aren't cheap anymore).
I'm sure both the Class B and TC manufacturers are wondering "what happened to our market?" Priced themselves out of their own markets.
I think if you have been on the B forum for a while you will notice, in the last year, a trend towards less expensive models of Class B's. Not everyone needs the newest tech, and manufactures are starting to realize that. At least I hope they are.
I don't think price equates to the Class B forum being slow though.
Most of the posters on here never were new B owners. Also, the older the rig, the more help the owners need.
I think the weather, the fact manufactures have their own FB pages, other B forums, and blogs, all are contributing factors to the "slowness" of this forum, as well as the other RV.net forums.
I also think the attitude of people has changed. More argumentative posts, and Trolls. Just not as friendly a place as it use to be,
Another factor may be, not many questions being asked that haven't been asked and answered numerous times, but that is just the nature of forums, and what happens when a forum has been around for 15 years.
I use to try and keep threads on topic, but got tired of people sending me PM's about why posts were deleted, even though I always posted, in the thread, at least a couple of times, to please keep posts on topic. It started to feel like I was teaching a bunch of school kids again. I think most members liked the stricter moderation, but the ones that didn't could be pretty nasty, and after a while I got tired of it. Is this one of the reasons this forum is slower that it use to be, maybe, but I don't know. I know this, I offed the Mod job to several people, and got no takers. :)
If I remember correctly, this was back in 2005, there are two external rivets holding the Fiamma end cap on. I remember drilling them out, repainting the end cap, and putting it back on with new rivets. They may have changed things since then.
Back then Fiamma had the end caps for sale on their web site, but I figured new ones would do the same thing so just decided to paint mine. I sort of remember something about Fiamma changing the caps because of the problems I described.
Here is their page with the end caps. Don't know if these fit the old awnings or not.
Here is a simple explanation.
"The power, or current, that batteries supply is dependent on chemical reactions and those reactions are slowed by freezing temperatures. Since the reactions are slowed, less energy is produced and the power output is lowered; with a lower output, the battery cannot keep up with the demand and can go dead, producing no current."
I don't about Carefree but Fiammas were notorious for the paint chipping, and yellowing on the end cap. I drilled out the rivets on mine, took it off, and repainted it. You could also buy new end caps from Fiamma.
If you are storing it in the winter, depending on where you live, solar may not be very reliable. I would imagine Boston hasn't seen enough sun to charge much of anything.
Rodger-of course you are correct-i still intend to start up and RUN every 2 weeks.
I found some obd2 port solar panels. I will use it also.
since i found that promaster 21 day blurb in the manual i am more confident once every 2 weeks will be sufficient
Just keep in mind the colder the weather the faster the battery will discharge.
I also know Rt claims their solar panels will charge with no sun, what they don't say is how much. Probably not an issue in you situation.
Before I forget congratulations on the Zion.
In this thread I was talking about Good Sam Roadside Assistance.
Good Sam Club is different from Good Sam Roadside Assistance.
Other than that I can't speak for what's best in Canada.
I suggest you ask Canada questions in the RVing in Canada forum.
The 1575 doesn't offer the 4 season package, that would be something I think you would want.
I would also suggest going up to the 1685. With 4 season package, and solar.
As for running the A/C Lance offers 9,000, 13,500, and now 15,000, so depending on where you live, or plan to travel will determine your choice, and the size of gen-set needed, but I would rule out the 9,000 BTU A/C. A Yamaha 2400 will run either the 9,000, 13,500, for the 15,000 BTU 2 Honda 2000's or a Honda, or Yamaha 3000.
For me, here in AZ the 15,000 BTU A/C is a must.
I agree, try and get the V8 Toyota, or some other Midsize SUV with a V8, and tow package. Not any Midsize V8's made anymore, all midsize now are uni-body.
We have a 2011 V8 Nissan Pathfinder, 7,000 lb tow capacity, purchased specially for the Lance 1685.
I'm going to retire in 2 years and am looking to upgrade from my 2010 Starcraft Travel Star Expandable. I have a 2011 Toyota Sequoia Platinum and would like to stay with that (used to be 9100 towing capacity before SAE-J2807 standard and is now 7000). I want a floor plan with 2 chairs, sofa bed and 1 queen bed (and slide(s) for more space). Looking at the Keystone Passport 2890RL because it's the lowest dry weight unit I can find that has my preferred floor plan. Dry weight is 5390.
1. Any concerns about towing capacity?
2. Is the 2890RL a quality brand/model? Other suggestions?
3. What's a fair price to pay for the 2890RL?
4. Any idea what my 2010 Starcraft Travel Star Expandable (in like-new) condition is worth?
Please help. I am a newbie at all of this and just trying to research my way through. Thanks so much!
The Lance 2285 has everything your looking for, except the sofa bed, but the dinette makes into a nice size bed.Two rockers in place of the sofa is an option. The Sequoia would be a great fit. GVWR 6000 lbs.
I think the Keystone has a GVWR of 7,200 lbs. It will work but you will really have to watch the payload. My opinion a little too much trailer for your Sequoia.
Back in 2002 Manchester had problems with their paint process. I think shortly after they went to powder coating. Mine, when new, had so much rust I made them replaced it with one that was powder coated. I figured if it looked that bad then I didn't want to have problems years later.
If it's just surface rust not a problem, just cosmetic, but if the metal is being eaten away, I would remove it, strip it, get all the rust off, prime, and spray paint it with a good metal paint.
Not hard to remove the tank, but much easier on a lift. I pulled mine, because I could faintly smell gas. I could not find the leak, figured it had to be somewhere behind the tank, sure enough a compression fitting had a crack in it. About a 2 hr job, and a couple bucks for the fitting. You are dealing with gas lines, so if your not comfortable removing, and reinstalling the tank yourself have a RV dealer do it.