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 > Your search for posts made by 'My Roadtrek' found 175 matches.

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RE: Tires...To Shine or not to Shine??????

Some more info. Tire Dressings "Prior to the application of a tire dressing, you need to make sure the tire is cleaned as per above – the tire protectant or dressing will adhere much better to a clean tire. Keep in mind that tire dressings won’t adhere to or create the right shine on a dirty rubber surface. As is the case for tire cleaning products found on the market, there are also a plethora of tire dressings. There are generally only two ‘types’ of tire dressings: water-based and solvent based. Water-based dressings are often a milky-white liquid and are typically a combination of naturally occurring oils and synthetic polymers that provide a very nice non-greasy, satin-like finish – very similar to the look of a new tire. Some water-based tire dressings also contain UVR blocking agents to help keep tires from cracking, fading and hardening. As an added bonus, most, if not all, water-based dressings are friendly to the environment. I have had good success with Meguiar’s Hyperdressing, an extremely nice all-around rubber dressing that doesn’t ‘sling’ off tires as you drive – it is water-based, however, and will not last very long. All water-based tire dressings are about the same as far as durability goes…you might get a week depending on the environment you are in. Solvent-based are often a clear, greasy liquid and tend to leave a wet, glossy film on the tire surface. Be careful, some solvent-based dressings contain solvents that, over time, may lead to premature drying and cracking of the tire surface. Solvent-based tire dressings are going to last much longer and look better than water-based dressings…and are going to be more expensive. If you stick with a reputable company then you won’t have any issues with ‘bad’ silicone being used to make the dressing. Perhaps the best solvent-based dressing on the market is Ultima Tire and Trim Guard Plus. This is a great product that can also be used on the wheels and trim…it is pricey but a little goes a long way. Meguiar’s All Season Dressing is also an excellent dressing for tires, trim and even wheel wells. If you are looking for economical and durable solutions then I would pick Meguiar’s Hyperdressing (water-based) for the engine bay and interior and Meguiar’s All Season Dressing (solvent-based) for exterior rubber, plastic, vinyl. Keep in mind that the difference between water- and solvent-based dressings is simply in the ‘carrier’ system used. Solvent-based products use a hydrocarbon silicone to suspend the product whereas water-based products use water. Some less reputable tire dressings, especially those used at car washes and quick turnaround detailing shops, use a solvent-based silicone dressing that has extreme shine and the tendency to sling off the tire onto the paint (as shown below) – left on the paint, you may get discoloration from this type of dressing. While application of a tire dressing is quite easy, there are a few points to keep in mind. First, don’t apply too much dressing. Simply apply some dressing to a dedicated tire rag, towel, or foam applicator and wipe the dressing on the tire to provide nice, even coverage. Be careful not to get the dressing on the car or the wheel – particularly when using an aerosol spray. Meguiar’s Hyperdressing typically comes in a gallon size container and can be diluted depending on need. I generally dilute it 1:1 and have had excellent results. Some other detailer’s dilute it 2:1 (2 parts water, 1 part Hyperdressing). Either way, you will need to find what is best for you and what look you are trying to achieve. A gallon of Hyperdressing will last a long time and is very cost effective. Meguiar’s All Season Dressing is sold ‘ready to use’. Third, a few minutes after you apply the dressing, wipe the tire with a clean rag or towel to remove any residue. And fourth, try to keep the tire dressing off of the tire tread. Tire dressing, either water- or solvent-based, will make the tire tread slippery. While all of the above may sound a bit complicated, the procedure is actually quite simple and will only take a few minutes per tire. In the end you will end up with a well protected tire that looks like it came out of a show room!" So what I surmise from this is, 303 is probably no better then other water based dressings, but is more expensive. Any good solvent based brand like Meguiar's, Mother's etc., will not harm the tire, costs more than water based, but lasts longer.
My Roadtrek 04/18/14 10:05pm General RVing Issues
RE: I need help...!

Moved to Class C from CVC.
My Roadtrek 02/03/14 03:22pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Let's talk about the Dodge Promaster Van

I'm closing this thread, if someone wants to start another one, I will let it go off topic, you can discuss anything you want in it. I wanted this one to be about the Promaster, It's chassis, and how it would be used by the up fitters. I've deleted several post that were not about the Promaster, and I'm tired of trying to keep it on topic.
My Roadtrek 02/03/14 03:17pm Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: Tire pressure at 80 PSI ?

A lot of manufactures revised their front tire recommendations later on, Roadtrek went from, I think 50 psi to 60 psi. I would not recommend going lower than 55 psi for the fronts. I ran 78 psi rear, and 63 front on the same size tire on my 2002 Chevy Roadtrek. I felt anything below 60 didn't give me the safety margin I wanted in case of a slow leak. The van rode, and handled great at those pressures.
My Roadtrek 02/03/14 04:07am Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: Tire pressure at 80 PSI ?

To make things a little more simple. Your Class B should be 80 rear, and 65 front.
My Roadtrek 02/02/14 04:34pm Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: Let's talk about the new Ford Transit Van

I doubt anyone will be allowed to cut the roof off a uni-body Transit. Class C builders will build on the cab-chassis version. A B can be any length as long as it starts off as a van, and I suspect there will be 2 or 3 length options that the up-fitters will offer.
My Roadtrek 02/01/14 04:25pm Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: Winnebago Era 70a

Back to the Topic please.
My Roadtrek 02/01/14 04:19pm Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: Buying a Roadtrek CS - any advice?

Their buying a CS. NADA guides are not very accurate as far as Class B's are concerned, usually their price is much lower than what the Vans are selling for.
My Roadtrek 01/31/14 12:32pm Class B - Camping Van Conversions
Class B's Presented by "Rollin' On TV"

Rollin On TV presents Class B Motorhomes
My Roadtrek 01/31/14 06:36am Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: Potentially purchasing 1999 Roadtrek 200 Versatile

Read the FAQ's at the top of this forums home page. Also, lots of info in the archives, just do a search using the different "search criteria".
My Roadtrek 01/29/14 03:24pm Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: Reduce road noise

To the OP You have made 19 posts, now head over to the Forum Tech Support forum, and read the "Sticky" at the top of the page on how to make active links, how to post photos, etc Then come back and make your link active, Thank you,
My Roadtrek 01/29/14 04:17am Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: Let's talk about the new Ford Transit Van

Transit Review from Top Speed "The Transit is not on the Ford price books yet but the range should mirror today’s Econoline vans with a 10-percent increase to account for all this new tech. Base prices are expected at $27,000 for the shortie, low-roof 3.7-liter, up to $47,000 for the extended wheelbase, high-roof diesel. As with other Fords, the Power Stroke diesel will likely be a costly stand-alone option that adds nearly $8,000 to the price, but doubles the fuel economy and range from the 26-gallon tank shared by all engines."
My Roadtrek 01/28/14 08:40pm Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: Let's talk about the new Ford Transit Van

F-150 EcoBoost Test Engine A production 3.5L EcoBoost V6 engine, #448AA, was randomly selected from the assembly line at Ford's Cleveland engine plant. This engine had no idea it was in store for 163k miles of brutal endurance testing. #448AA was Shipped to dynamometer cell 36B in Ford's Dearborn, MI engine lab and run for 300 hours, this engine's first experience was a rapid simulation of 150,000 customer miles, including thermal-shock runs in which the engine was cooled to -20F and then heated to +235F, repeatedly. The engine was shipped to Ford's Kansas City truck plant where it was installed in an F-150 4X4 Super-Crew. After assembly the truck was driven to Nygaard Timber in Astoria, Oregon, where it dragged a total of 110,000 pounds of logs across the ground (requiring all 420 ft-lb TQ) Next they drove the truck to Miami Speedway, and hooked it up to a 2-car open trailer carrying two NASCAR Ford Fusions (a total of 11,300 pounds) and run continuously around the oval track for 24 hours (average speed: 82 mph, distance covered: 1,607 miles) After this they took the truck to Davis Dam in Arizona, where it beat out the 5.3-liter Chevy Silverado V-8 AND the Ram 5.7-liter Hemi V-8 each pulling 9,000 pounds up a 6 percent grade in an uphill towing contest. The 3.5-liter twin-turbo EcoBoost engine was removed and then installed in a 7,100-pound F-150 Baja race truck. After 1,200 miles of practice they raced the truck 1060 miles in the SCORE Baja 1000, the toughest off-road race in North America, finishing 1st overall in the Stock Engine class. The truck's owner said the engine's fuel economy was so good compared with his previous V8 he skipped 2 planned fuel stops during the grueling trip from Ensenada to La Paz. After winning in Baja they sent the engine back to dynamometer cell 36B and dyno-tested one final time. It generated 364HP and 420ft-lb TQ, only one horsepower less than its HP rating and exactly Ford's given torque rating. Lastly, for the final episode of the F-150 EcoBoost torture test, Ford Motor Co did a complete engine tear-down and inspection of engine #448AA (never been serviced or previously inspected) in front of thousands at the 2011 North American International Auto Show in Detroit, Michigan. The engine parts were laid out on three huge tables so that when the tear-down was complete, the engineers and the audience could take a closer look. http://www.full-race.com/img/articles/f150/teardown5.jpg width=400
My Roadtrek 01/28/14 02:28pm Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: Let's talk about the new Ford Transit Van

I didn't start this thread to be another Sprinter VS Ford. We know how loyal the Sprinter owners are here, and how great the Sprinters have been for their owners, Any suggestion that the Ford might be better than the Sprinter, or pointing out any negatives about the Sprinter, is just going to cause a problem with the Sprinter fans, so let's keep it about the Ford Transit. Thanks
My Roadtrek 01/27/14 03:39pm Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: Buying a Roadtrek CS - any advice?

10 to 15% maybe up to 18% depending on time of year, and if it's one dealers want to move because newer models are coming in.
My Roadtrek 01/26/14 11:12pm Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: RV Wash Joke of the day!

Fiamma makes a rain guard, that keep debris out of that space. fiamma Rain Guard
My Roadtrek 01/26/14 11:08pm Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: New CS Adventurous

OP, you can learn to post photos, etc. over at the Forum Tech Support forum. Check out the Sticky at the top of that forums home page for Tutorials. Moderator
My Roadtrek 01/24/14 03:13pm Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: Smog on a new C

It might depend on how old the chassis is. Lots of new RV 's are built on 2 year old chassis.
My Roadtrek 01/23/14 09:00pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Antique Class B Mercedes Sprinter

I needed one of those in the 70's, I could have put my long boards in that one. That's surfboards, not 2X4's. :)
My Roadtrek 01/23/14 02:09pm Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: Tioga George Calls It Quits

He's been camping at the Q.
My Roadtrek 01/22/14 09:26pm General RVing Issues
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