Whether it is single or dual axle will depend on how heavy the trailer is. Manufacturers will not use tandem axles unless the weight rating requires more than one axle.
Tandems are more directionally stable, or at least harder to turn. If not properly aligned, the direction they want to go might not be straight.
This has upsides and downsides. In close maneuvering, particularly backing, it is easier to get a single axle trailer to change direction, harder to keep it going straight. If you are not paying attention, you can jackknife backing about the length of the tongue. But a tandem, you might have to back that much to start it turning.
There are variations.
On mine, it is just there, covered and screened with a flap under the cover. When the hood fan is turned on, the air pressure pushes the flap open. Under rare conditions, it might rattle while moving.
There are others that need to be unlatched, but it has been a while since I've seen one that has to be manually opened. Almost all are at least partially covered with respect to rain or water dripping down the side, and most I've seen are screened against large insects.
My 2001 standard cab Ranger Edge was 3600 pounds on the scale at the dump, with me in it (so 3400 empty). I towed that for several years, 2wd with manual transmission. My 1992 Ranger XLT was at least 200 pounds lighter. But those are more compact than mid-size.
4x4 Colorado is towable and midsize. What it weighs depends on how you option it (engine, cab, bed size, tech and trim) with the four cylinder extended cab WT going to be the lightest.
Nice, but it looks narrow.
Maximum standard vehicle widths for private vehicles in the EU are a bit less than in U.S. and Canada, for some classes of roads, although commercial vehicles on Class 3 roads (at 2.6M) get about an inch more than we do here.
The other thing they have to deal with is a sharp break in licensing, fees and taxes at 3500 KG. This motorhome is already over that, so operators will have special licenses.
Best for what? Do you want to grill, smoke, roast, or bake? Use it also as a griddle? Roast on a spit? Or some combination?
Not every grill does everything. Some of the best for grilling don't work so well for smoking and may have the even surround of heat needed for baking or roasting.
Then there is the question of charcoal, gas, or electric? Portability becomes another question.
I bought the original charcoal Weber Kettle grill/smoker at the Base Exchange 45 years ago and I am still using it. Not as pretty as it once was, but nothing rotted through and just as functional as ever, for grilling, roasting, smoking but not useful for rotisserie and not portable for RVing. This one still sells for about $100, but you might be getting some accessory parts too, for various cooking methods.
My brother went through three "do everything" gas grills in the same 45 years, at successively higher prices (paid almost $2000 for his last one, all stainless steel). Parts eventually rusted through, needed regular repair or replacement, but not too expensive because most functional grill parts are generic.
For RVing or camping, I find portability to be an issue. If you want gas or electric, with some small smoker capability, and longevity, I recommend the Baby Q, it is built as tough as the kettle, comes in both gas and electric versions.
If you will do charcoal, the Weber Smokey Joe is a more portable kettle, same capabilities, just less capacity. But consider your storage space. What fits best in my underfloor are the little box grills with smoker lids. The Weber Go-Anywhere as a high end example, but there are cheap clones like Uniflame, charcoal or gas, for about half the price, almost cheap enough to be disposable.
For something that will last forever, there are cast iron grills in small box sizes, somewhat heavier than porcelain coated steel. If you want to just grill in the open, using charcoal, a hibachi costs about $30 in cast iron, $15 in steel, and packs into a small space.
One I can recommend against is the Coleman Camp Grill (at least three different versions including the Fold N Go) because it is too shallow, burner to grill, this causing uneven heat distribution in a not particularly useful pattern. I got it because it packs up about the size of a briefcase, but it just doesn't cook very well. This makes me shy about their larger (suitcase size) portables like the Roadtrip and NXT models, which are similarly shallow, burner to grill.
For our RV "camping" club the games all seemed to be for sitting around in an air-conditioned clubhouse: Mexican Train, Skip-Bo, RummiCube. Nothing as intellectual as Yahtzee.
But not everybody sat in the clubhouse to play table games. For the rest of us there was a lot of hiking, fishing, storytelling.
When I've been out with pre-teens, our grandchildren or others, there has not been a lot of interest in formalized gaming. More physical activity is involved. Fishing works for a while, if there is some success, but learning or exercising camping crafts (making fires, building things, camp cooking) tend to hold interest better.
Up and down at various times, not just day versus night. Down for moments of privacy and to control direct sunlight. Down might mean the translucent "day" shades, or the opaque "night" shades. When I have no lights on inside, might use the "day" shades at night.
Up for letting light in, for ventilation, for looking outside. If I sleep with windows open, the shades on those windows will be up.
I use USAA for my motorhome, which they insure as a passenger vehicle. USAA carries all of my liability and casualty insurance and they are one of my banks. Member since 1967, when it was a co-op of officers only.
But they don't write casualty insurance on trailers, rather broker that for another insurer.
What insurance you have to carry depends on the type of RV and financial status. Motorized RVs come under state financial responsibility laws, and what kinds of insurance depends on the state, e.g. "no-fault" vs insurance or bond for liability.
Trailers don't need liability coverage in most cases, so you will be buying casualty insurance only to protect your investment, or a financial institutions interest in the trailer. If you own a trailer outright, and can afford to take the risk on its loss, you can often self insure. If you need to insure just a trailer, shop around, you might get better premiums, particularly if your automobile insurer doesn't actually underwrite that insurance and farms it out.
Why more expensive than Travato?
Looking at interior photos, it appears to be fitted out to a higher trim standard than the Travato, maybe closer to the trim of the ERA.
There is also somewhat more van. The chassis is a higher GVWR, and the turbocharged engine chosen by Winnebago adds about $1900 to the MSRP of the van, compared to the standard V-6 that is more equivalent to the V-6 you get with the Ram Promaster. Even the maxed out GVWR on the Transit adds more than $1500 to the price, compared to a Transit with same GVWR as the Promaster.
But I think the Paseo is starting out with way too high a price, too close to the ERA, which is on the 11,030 GVWR dual rear wheel 24-foot Sprinter, which costs at least $10,000 more for the bare van.
Best connection is a single high pressure tap ahead of the regulator, going out to a distribution "tree" (Coleman sells these). Your hoses from tree to appliances may be much shorter than multiple hoses from LPG tank.
It varies. The water company likely doesn't know the difference, but the hookups for a RV and a mobile home are not at all the same.
Ask the management of the mobile home park. Water is probably the least of your problems, sewage and electrical hookups can be quite different RV vs mobile home, and the power company can be a stickler for following code. Banged heads with those when they were rewiring entrance service to a 70 year old house I owned, ended up putting in a new breaker box and bypassing all the old boxes. It is not like just plugging in a cord.
In the XP era, I would boot from the Windows install CD. Back then, almost every computer came with one, as well as a CD package of necessary drivers. The XP install program can choose any internal hard drive to partition, write a boot block, and install the OS. I set up a two-drive XP system with the XP OS on each drive, one for Flight Simulator, the other for any other use.
With XP, starting over tended to be easier than fixing. However, you may no longer be able to get all the updates and service packs. I don't know, moved on to Win 7 about 10 years ago.
Element has the same drive train as contemporary CR-V models, and is just as towable, following the CR-V instructions. Because the Element was targeted to a lower price point, price of car did not cover the additional warranty cost of covering damage from recreational towing.
As you noted, earlier Elements included towing instructions. There were not changes in drivetrain, but as Honda built experience with warranty service costs associated with flat towing, they restricted it to the CR-V which could sell at a high enough price and volume to cover the additional warranty service costs.
Similar issues with Accords, Odysseys, Pilots, Civics, which Honda said were flat towable until warranty service started eating their lunch.
Approval of recreational towing is often more an economic/business decision than a technical issue. There was a time when almost all Toyota models were treated as flat towable until Toyota figured out what this was costing them, vs the small market for flat tow capability.
If it is beyond warranty period and mileage, you are towing at your own risk, regardless of what the manufacturer said.
Ford Focus ST is manual transmission only, all the bells and whistles. At a price.
But wait. Since you are asking here, you probably want to tow it. Ford does not rate the ST as towable. This likely has more to do with suspension, wheel alignment and tire wear, and ground clearance, than it has to do with the transmission.
You've put yourself in the position of needing a towed vehicle in the 3000 pounds or under range, and your present vehicle inventory doesn't really make the grade. In the U.S., with all the mandatory safety equipment, under 3000 is the sub-compact size category.
I've found towed vehicle happiness with a base model Honda Fit (2012, manual transmission) which is about a half ton lighter than the Ford Ranger I used to tow (also manual transmission, and my limit is 5000 pounds) but not as comfortable to drive on long trips (although the Fit is a blast around town, under 50 mph, it is really buzzy at 70-80 mph).
But really, a towed vehicle is a compromise between what can be towed, and what meets your transportation needs, towing and not towing. If you really think you need to tow a vehicle behind a Fuse (all of my 30,000 miles of travels in a much larger Winnebago have been without towing) then you need to find a towable vehicle much smaller than the Escape. Options under 3000 pounds are limited, unless you are willing to drive manual transmission, with opens up choices for a lot of front wheel drive subcompact cars.
For me, 16-18 feet might be enough, it would give me a bathroom, modest storage, a permanent sleeping area, and a work area and kitchen. I don't need a lounge area. But storage for the stuff you want with you is the big issue with full timing, and I would be covered by using a full-size van as the tow vehicle for a small TT.
But tight now, for seasonal/snowbirding, I'm hanging on to the 29-foot motorhome I've already paid for, as it has space to rattle around in (we've done trips with six people) and can carry about 2000 pounds of stuff. A 24-26 foot TT might have equivalent space, but it is not so easy to find that carrying capacity, some of what you think your life needs might have to go on the tow vehicle.
I've met folks who full time solo in van conversions, pop-up trailers on 10 or 12 foot boxes, 24-foot travel trailers (with 2-4 children). I've met couples and even singles who need 40-45 feet of motorcoach, or 38-40 feet of fifth wheel trailer. Much of this depends on how much stuff you need to carry with you, as a single human being needs very little space for survival or modest comfort.
It is about land values to start with, then about the cost of building and maintaining the facility.
I pay $66 a month for covered open storage in a formerly rural area that is starting to be more developed, within city limits of a declining small city (all the biggest employers moved to bigger cities). A spot in the open within 20 miles of Tulsa (or one of its suburbs) is going to cost $120-150. So $120 near KC doesn't sound all that bad.
I don't like the storage to be more than 3-5 miles away. As it is, I put on almost as much miles to-from storage as I do going house to campsite, which is about 15 miles for me.
In a severe storm area, I'll pay whatever is needed for covered storage. In this part of the country, enclosed and climate controlled is not such a big deal, my concern is the frequency of "golf ball size" or "baseball size" hail. Other locales have different problems (think 200 inches of snow).
Storage is just one of the costs of RV ownership, about on a par with insurance (for a motorized RV, at least) but a small fraction of value of money costs (depreciation, interest, loss of investment income). RV owners tend to ignore these bigger costs, which they don't easily see, and get hung up on the smaller costs for which they have to write checks monthly, quarterly, annually etc.
Campgrounds are often located in flood areas because campers usually like to be close to the water. Ten people were killed in a 2010 flash flood of low-lying campgrounds in Arkansas, when 8-10 inches of rain in the upstream watershed raised stream levels as much as seven meters faster than rangers could get notification out to evacuate campgrounds. At least 200 campsites were flooded.
This is also an issue in RV parks, when tend to be located on low value land, which often equates to flood plain. Our local RV "Resort" will be under 20 feet of water in a 100 year flood (we've had three of those in the 36 years I've lived here). I've been in more than one RV park where I was thinking, as I hooked up, "I don't want to be here if it might rain tonight."
As a geoscientist, I'm probably more aware of these issues than most RVers and campers. It also has an influence on where I choose to live, like not on an island in the middle of a flood basin (especially a low-lying island) or at the top of a bluff or cliff ready to slide into the river or sea, which tend to be really choice property before the disaster happens.
But "We love it here, we will come back" is the more typical response. A couple of my sisters really love beaches, probably the most ephemeral of properties for building. Fortunately for them, they can't afford beachfront property, at least not close enough to build something that will get washed away in their lifetimes.