Small wastebasket goes under the sink, lined with plastic grocery bag. Anything that can be recycled goes into another plastic bag hanging from a peg or door handle. Trash gets carried to the dumpster daily, or more often, in campgrounds or RV parks.
What people do varies a lot. I know three cases of Florida - Michigan snowbirding.
My late brother would go down to Florida after Labor Day and come back to Michigan at the beginning of June. He would fly back to Michigan for Thanksgiving and Christmas holidays with family (usually hosted at his Michigan house, which was kept up in his absence by niece and nephew). His wintering place was in Citrus County, which is less crowded than South Florida but still warm enough if you are used to Michigan weather.
One cousin goes down (from forest cottage in NE Lower Peninsula) at beginning of October, taking about a month to get to Fort Myers. Last year he started leaving his RV in Florida, built a small camper in the large utility trailer he uses to carry his motorcycles back and forth, for camping enroute. He returns to Michigan April-May, again spending 2-4 weeks enroute. His kids come down to Florida for holidays, if they are not doing something else (like cruises or tropical vacations).
Another cousin goes down (to Hernando County) after the beginning of the year, returns to Michigan (Detroit area) towards the end of March. My grandparents lived in Hernando County 1950 to 1980, found it adequately warm for a mostly outdoor life in the winter.
What space works is something each couple has to figure out for themselves. Two people will not each have their own space in 18-foot TT (if you mean overall length, not box size). At that size, separate sleeping and living areas are unlikely. As you get to 22-24 feet overall length, you will find sleeping space separate from living areas, and at the upper end, maybe separate dining and seating spaces. But you will both be in the same room, all the time.
No place in Florida is going to have winter daytime highs in the 60s guaranteed. I lived Central Florida two years, most of the winter I was in summer uniforms with a jacket. However January 72 when we went to Key West, highs dropped into the 40s as far south as the Keys. But generally it highs will be 50s to 70s most of January and February, once you are south of Tampa. March is warm. Winter is the gray season in Florida, but not as gray as Michigan winters.
If it is TPO, it is a step up from EPDM, which gets generally called "rubber." RV manufacturers generally use one of these two.
PVC roofing membranes have been around for almost 50 years, and while they will de-gas plasticizers, the materials have shown about 30 year durability in commercial use.
While TPO membranes don't have plasticizers, durability is really unknown. TPO RV fabrics usually come with 20 year warranties, but current formulations have been in use less than five years. TPO was introduced as an alternative to PVC, with supposed advantages of better weather resistance but long term benefits vs PVC have yet to be demonstrated.
The PVC is probably going to be 10 to 20 cents per square foot more expensive than TPO, depending on thickness and grade. There are at least four different grades of PVC roofing membrane and thicknesses range from 30 to 60 mils.
Get the installer to explain why the PVC is better than TPO or EDPM alternatives.
You have to check each unit, as generalizations don't work.
Many TT model lines, and some lower cost fivers, will have plumbing outside heated space. This is harder to check than it used to be because buyers want "enclosed underbelly" so even entry price models will have a sheet of fabric or plastic hiding everything under the floor.
Premium towable lines, particularly fivers built for the full-timer market, will plumbing in heated space, though that might be below the floor. Some lines actually have heated basements containing utilities, also serving to make for warmer floors. Carriage used to do this for their Carri-Lite and higher model lines, but not for lower priced model lines. At Northwood, heated basement space used to be one of the differences between the Arctic Fox and the lower-priced Nash lines.
Most of the RV production is in cold parts of the country, and the production season starts in winter. Depending on QC procedures, RVs sent out for delivery may be dry (never had water in them) or may have been winterized after testing the plumbing. I would expect that Airstream checks out plumbing systems wet at the factory, so winterization is necessary before the motorhome goes out the door.
When a dealer dewinterizes is going to depend on climate, sales season, and whether showrooms are indoors. Prep for delivery often doesn't happen until after RVs are sold, except for models brought into indoor showrooms, so even when it warms up stock sitting outside may still be winterized. Not many winter buyers in cold climates will take delivery during winter; prep and delivery will often be scheduled for Spring.
Whether or not prep charges are itemized will depend on dealer policy and factory policy (terms of the dealer's franchise). Some manufacturers include prep as a line item in the MSRP so a dealer for that brand should not be adding the cost to the invoice. Invoice add-ons are often negotiable.
If you are willing to look around for something used, Canadian manufacturer Bigfoot used to make a series of Class C models that were designed for four-season use. They have since cut back to making only truck campers and travel trailers.
Motorcoach converters will build for four-season use, they do this for many of professional travel coaches that move bands, stage crews, pop stars around and those that get used as dressing rooms for movie locations (although that market has been moving toward semi-trailers). Typical use of these travel coaches, however, is that they are never shut down while occupied, using the main engine or a large generator as source of power and heat. Not really RVs, and expensive (high six figures or low seven figures when new). Similar costs apply to custom RV conversions of motorcoaches.
Otherwise, look at high-end Class A motorhomes. I know Newell Coach builds for four-season use. The factory has a few 7-8 year old used coaches for sale at $800,000 to $900,000 (a new one will be in the neighborhood of $2,000,000).
2011 rambler 2016 forester
In that case, I can't choose because I haven't seen a Holiday Rambler of that era. Prior to Monaco Corp shutting down the H-R plant and moving production, the H-R, Monaco and Safari C's were special, built up with framed walls. From then until the Monaco bankruptcy, with H-R brands being built by R-Vision, they were assembled from laminated panels, nothing special and not particularly better than Forest River C's.
Whatever is being built with that brand by the re-emerged Monaco, I've not yet seen. They've reopened the Holiday Rambler plant, but that doesn't mean they've gone back to H-R construction methods. 2011 brochures don't discuss construction, the Alumalite line looks like laminated panel construction, but it is hard to tell from photos.
I guess it depends on where you are in the relationship. When we were first married and in youthful trim, two of us in a twin was nice and cosy, and going to a double we seldom used more than half the bed. About 30 years in, we expanded to queen to have a little more sleep space for larger bodies. When an overseas move put us into a king it was "are you trying to get away from me?" But my sister and her husband totaled over 500 pounds and a king was cozy.
B designs tend to offer "twin" beds that are really more cot size, or shared beds that are larger than queen but not quite king, at the rear of the RV. Anything foldout in other locations is going to be smaller.
Given the compromises of fitting a house into a van, you have to work out what is most important to you. Across all manufacturer's offerings, most of the different compromises are available. You can also go to someone like Sportsmobile and build custom, if you can sort out your own priorities.
There are "stick" devices usually controlled by an app on phone or tablet, sometimes browser on a computer. There are box devices usually controlled by a remote with inteface on the TV screen. Most Blu-Ray players will stream, box style.
If your TV is smart enough, it can do its own streaming. Different brands of smart tv do different services.
What device can depend on what services you want to use. I've been butting heads with Google won't do Amazon and Amazon won't do Google, and either might not do Apple. Roku boxes will do almost everything, but last I checked my sister still has an Apple TV and a Roku to get the services she wants.
I use a Chromecast (now probably Googlecast) because it will send to the TV anything I can stream through the Chrome browser on any platform, and will connect direct to some providers (e.g. Netflix) controlled by browser or app.
What services? Depends on what you want to watch. I'm into classic movies, indie films, foreign films, and some 70s-90s TV series, so I haven't cut the cable (want TCM and local news) and subscribe to Netflix. Most of what I want from Amazon is PPV, so not doing that yet.
If you have a lot of cable network stuff you want to stream, subscriptions can add up to more than paying a cable service. Broad streaming service packages like Uverse can cost as much as cable or satellite, so its not like everything you get on cable is streamed at no cost.
What "cut the cable" means for local channels depends on where you live. Probably 80-90% of the population lives within a well provided broadcast market and can get 3-5 networks and some independents with a good OTA antenna, but something like half the area of the U.S. is outside market area for OTA broadcasters now that we are digital. I'm in one of those dead spots so I keep cable.
I recommend the Tampa show, if the time and place are right for you. That's where I started after coming back into the U.S. and wanting a look at everything. Most of the major dealers in Florida and southern Georgia bring stock, supplemented by units direct from factory.
You won't see all models there (dealers don't always stock everything in the catalog) but you should find all mass produced brands, all model lines within the brands. Central Florida dealers will have yet more in stock back at the store location.
I consider warranties on RVs to be a non-issue over the long term. 1-2 years, generally covering only "defects in materials and workmanship" a warranty is not going to cover whether the thing was designed to last a long time using it the way you want to use it.
If considering long term service plans, often billed as "extended warranties" pay careful attention to the details, what is included, what is excluded, a procedures necessary to getting something paid.
You don't know how small is too small until you try living in it. The longer you live in it, the more likely it will be too small.
With what you are considering doing with a motorhome, you will likely still be towing, another vehicle for getting around at your destination. I get by not towing when continuously traveling, but when going to a destination, I need transportation. Sometimes fellow campers, sometimes family, sometimes a borrowed car, sometimes my wife followed me in her car. Since she died, more often now I am towing a car, bought for the purpose. I am on my second one.
If you are always going to the same warm place for no more than two months, there are options that can be less expensive and less confining than ownership of a small RV, motorized or towable. There are warm places, not in resort areas or urban centers, where rentals or even second home ownership can be less expensive than ownership of a motorhome comfortable long term for a family of four. One problem might be that some of these tend to be 55+ communities, another is that small rural communities in the South can be a major culture shock for folks from other parts of the country (which is why snowbirds tend to congregate in snowbird communities).
Higher pressure also means a smaller contact patch, tire to road, and less traction at upper limits. Tire pressures get fine tuned for racing, you don't drive your RV at those limits except maybe an energency maneuver.
Many state universities and some top-notch private schools now have online programs. For two-year programs, some community colleges now have online programs. My oldest daughter and her husband have completed degrees through online programs at state universities, a local university in her case, a university half-way around the world in his case, through a military education program.
A student first needs to figure out what he/she wants to study, then look into schools that have that program, and make applications for admission.
Tax supported schools are often less expensive than private schools, if you qualify for in-state tuition. That's not always easy if you are moving around or have recently moved into a state. My daughter had to move from Tennessee to Michigan and work there for more than a year before University of Michigan would consider enrolling her as in-state. It is often impossible to change this status, for tuition purpose, if you are already a student or moving around.
Beware of on-line programs at commercial "trade" schools. Some of these look good because they advertise nationally and have small local campuses in many cities, but some also have very low completion rates, exist mostly to collect money from college loan programs.
Both of the lists you've been linked to are good.
GVWR is often less than the sum of GAWRs because GVWR can be assigned to a vehicle for tax and licensing purposes.
For your truck, 10,000 is the max for a DOT Class 2 vehicle, category in which the F-250 is sold, and measured for emissions and CAFE. With the same equipment, it could have a 11,300 GVWR as an F-350, which is DOT Class 2, allowed to go to 14,000 pounds.
Model year matters, as the DOT categories evolve. Class 1 was once limited to 6000 pounds, but moved up as standard size vehicles got heavier over the past 60 years. You'll now find "1/2" tons with GVWR at least as high as 8600 pounds, which was once "3/4 ton" territory.
Any R-factors you find for walls don't mean much if the walls are filled with windows. My walls are 2", 1 1/2 inches of foam for at least R-7, but all the heat loss is through single pane windows (which don't necessarily seal air flow either).
You can't do this and get DVD quality, but you can do it on a computer by playing through an analog-to-digital capture device (some computer graphics cards included this), or sometimes it works to hook up a VHS player to a DVD recorder.
If you are asking about converting copy-protected commercial VHS tapes, you might need to run the composite video signal through a time-base corrector, for early VHS recordings. After 1984, when the industry started using Macrovision (more than one technology) the copy protection is harder to defeat than the earlier practice of messing with the time-base. For the Macrovision technique of inserting pulses into the VBS, there were filtering devices sold in the VHS era to remove the pulses that told a recorder "don't record this." The technique of messing with the colorburst is harder to fix.
The cost of the equipment to do what you want to do will likely exceed the cost of replacing your favorite titles with DVD versions, particularly since there is now a huge market in used DVDs. I've built my DVD library with titles I've bought used at $1 to $5.
Have you read the codes? This genset self-analyzes to some extent.
I've had one start and not make the transition to 3600 RPM no-load conditions, codes said to check ignition and fuel systems.
I've had it start, get up to speed, and cut off immediately, codes indicated load electrical problems. In that case I found one of the RV branch circuits had a short to ground.
Codes are a blinking pattern after it quits. Interpretations are in the owner's manual.
Nine years is a lot of time on an OEM starting battery, usually warranted for 24-36 months. Over the years I've learned that it is time to have the battery replaced, or at least tested, at first sign of it not being up for starting.
Problem is, most cars and trucks today start too easily most of the time, and you learn about problems only on hard start conditions (like colder weather). Some car dealers and service shops now do battery tests as part of the oil change/routine maintenance inspection service, because it can be a sales opportunity for an overpriced battery.