My problem with Trimark is the dang spring bolt (Slam latch some call it) that is teh one that normallyh latches the door when it is NOT locked.
They break and won't retract then you have to figure out how to depress the plunger...
Had it happen twice to me so far... First time I repalced it, Second time I had a new bolt carved out of higher quality steel.
You can have seatbelts installed, but it'll cost you. In 1970 I bought an old car and had just lap belts installed; I think even bac then it cost me a couple hundred bucks.
Where as I did the install myself back in the 60's.. Have always believed in the power of the belt to save lives.
Do not like Air bags at all.
Effiency I'm not sure.. NOISE I am sure
First it cools faster on HI because the more air you move the more heat you can transfer.> SO HIG speed, auto or constant is the remaining question.
Constant, epically if ducted, your brain tends to "Filter" it out very quickly
On and Off (Auto) it's very annoying, even ducted.
Make and Model? First. if it's more than a few years old you might want to looks at some of the 15000 BTU jobs.. I replaced a 13.5 with 1 15K and the amazing thing is the power draw is ..... Identical.. More cool, same watts.
Why Upgrade. Well It's getting hotter out every year, Record breaking heat waves.
Now: What's wrong with your A/C.. in my case it was catastrophic failure of the cooling uint. (THe part that is above the roof) Carrier (Mine are Carrier Air Vs) no longer makes RV air conditioners so a direct replacement was not possible (Having seen how they bungled my unit (Died of a factory error) I'm not surprised they left the field)
I was able to get a "Drop on" replacement though. Mine is Advent air (I do not recommend) I believe one of the companies that start with "C" also makes one that fits. What I forget is which company.. But a good dealer will know.
How many volts should we see... (I wish I saw 12.5) Depends on where you measure (I'm using the voltmeter inside the inverter).
IF measuring at the battery 12.5 is fantastic 12.6 is resting voltage full charge and with the kind of amps an inverter pulls 0.1 volt drop is amazing (on the good side).
If measuring at the inverter... Put inverter in standby (no load or minimal load) and note voltage... Then enable inverter and note voltage.. The difference is your "line loss" consisting of internal resistance in teh batteriesm, Wire loss, and connection loss.. this is your "Loaded" full charge voltage. Mine can go down rather far (I show 0.02 ohms resistance.. If I'm sucking say 1,000 watts (roughly 100 amps) that is 2 full volts drop. I'm still working to lower that resistance.
I will stick with LED's till something better comes along for most uses.
The thing about incandascents, which I still use exclusively in some places, is this.. When they talk about an efficency of 2-3 percent they are talking about turning Electricity into light..... So what happens to the other 97-98 percent of the energy.. HEAT of course.
Sometimes.. What I'm looking for is heat (Which the light will become when it is absorbed by assorted non reflective/transparent stuff) so I use incandescents' for heat Work great.
But for lighting it's CFL or LED. I really like my LED's.
If you were parked next to me we coudl test it, I can generate both a low and high voltage situtation in a manner that WILL NOT damage your RV I can also tell you how to protect the RV during testing in this message:
TURN OFF THE MAIN CIRCUIT BREAKER... Yup, that is how you protect the RV.
Now: What I have is a 3-amp Variable auto-transformer (Variac) it can output from zero to just about the cut off voltage of my Surge Guard. I have the means to add a few volts to that.. But it's only a 3 amp (So you have to turn off the main breaker of you will pop it's fuse)
Then you plug in the RV (Via an adapter) and a volt meter and dial in the voltages.. or slowly increase, or decrease the voltage till the Surge Guard "objects" and shuts you off... That's how you test.
Finally remove the variac to storage plug in and turn the main breaker back on.
NOTE: I got the Variac for testing Other stuff (You use them when you restore vintage electronics to service) but it works for this too. I have 2 of them.
Consider a 12 volt hair dryer adn a Heavy duty 12 volt outlet.
Inverter needs to be in teh 2,000 watt range,, 4/0 or bigger cable to batteries no more than 3 feet away (but not in the same air space) and standard Romex from there to the sub panel and from the sub panel to the Dryer
If your inverter has breakers intgernal skip the sub panel
If you plan on plugging a cord directly into an outlet on the inverter then twelve gauge please.. not 14 or 16 go with 12
Any time the load wattage has a comma 12 ga or larger is indicated, even if 14 meets specs.. 12 simply works better.
My inverter has 10ga from the 2,000 watt inverter to the sub panel, and from there 12 to the microwave and 14 to other loads.
I think most vehicles are designed to have the "Sweet Spot" mpg wise between 50 and 70 MPH, Motor homes tend to be in the lower ragne. Mine does best at 55-60 both when towing and when bobtail. 38' Class A. bobtail I've hit 11MPG just driving under normal conditions, Usually get 8-9 Towing.
Under optimal conditions (100mph dead astern tail wind) 13.8 towing. But alas that does not often happen and I really do not like those conditions.
Most storage yards force you to sign a "hold Harmless" note that absolves them of liability should damage happen.
The value of these documents varies from state to state, but the general advice is to consult with a professional (your attorney) for many of them are useful only in the room with the plumbing and the flusher.
Not working is kind of generic.. Symptoms
Does it do NOTHING
Does it try to lock on to a satellite but can not succeed
Are you a DISH NETWORK customer or DirecTV
Domes: Do not work on DirecHDTV, period, they do work on DirecTV (no HD)
on dish they can work on both SD and HD BUT... Dish recently did a software upgrade on their satellites,, Older domes no longer can lock on them, Now SOME domes may be upgradable, but frankly that's above my pay grade and I can no longer send you to the man who knows (He hung out on a different forum family and management ran him off..... I think they wanted a professional sponsorship from him and he's not that rich).
In this case.. The GFCI is normally the second thing off the branch circuit breaker (The first thing is of course the wire that connects them) so i'd check there.. using a meter or test lamp make sure you have power to the "LINE IN" terminals on the back of the GFCI.
The wire coming off the breaker (#2 place to check is the screws in the breaker box by the way) #3 is the breaker itself, and unless there are junctions or other devices between Breaker and GFCI there is no #4)
The Wire is normally Romex, Solid wire,, The leads on the GRCI are stranded wire, Often they wire nut, or cap nut (Crimp on) the connection, Neither is all that great a connection method. They have been known to come loose.
IF GFCI is in a slide out there will be additional junction boxes, Same comment (under the slide)
And of course Bad GFCI's do exist,, thousands of them at any given time.
Bad plan, the inverter is 2800 watts, the transfer switch is likely 30 amps max, You run the 50 amp line to your main breaker box (where it runs now) and then run a 30 or 35 or 40 amp BRANCH line to the inverter.
Inverters come (for this post) in two flavors, Those with breakers included, and those (like mine) without
if yours has breakers included you run branch circuits off those breakers
If like mine You run a same size line (30 amp needs at least 10ga wire, Higher amps more wire) back to a SUV panel, This is a breaker box without a "Main" breaker, the incoming power goes straight to the bus bar.
Then you run branch lines from there. Mine (2000 watt) feeds the Microwave, TV's (All of 'em) also my computers (Same branch) and the GFCI chain. (Bath, Kitchen, patio, Dining room table)
Side note: I have a wireless doorbell i got from PCH.. This one is different from all the others I've ever had in that the receiver (Bell) is battery powered, Since the receiver runs 24x7 it ate batteries.. 3 of them about every 2 weeks (Expensive) I cut and pasted (Ok Soldered) a USB cable to the battery contacts in the unit, Removed the batteries, Plugged a 5 Volt USB charger adapter into the Microwave circuit (used a 3-way cube) and now .. it is "mains" powered. IF Mains fails the inverter kicks in every bit as fast as a UPS so the TV's, Microwave and of course computers and doorbell, Do not even blink.
That one, on it's face, appears to be easy.
When the T-Stat calls for heat the blower starts.. Ignition is delayed.
When the blower comes up to speed and air flow is great enough a device called a SAIL SWITCH closes, then the control board lights the burner (Ignition happens) I won't go through the entire procedure.
But after two or 3 days of boondocking the batteries are getting a bit.. Run down. and the blower never comes up to speed.. The solution is to run your Generator long enough (During the day of course) to FULLY charge the batteries, This takes, at the minimum, six hours.
One of the nice things about Inverter generators is they monitor their output rather well (At least the better ones do) if they are "out of spec" they shut off. Duplicating the function of the EMS
So.. You can use it.. But no need since the primary functions are already served.
Same I might add is true of ONAN traditional generators (The make I have in my A, I do not know about other brands but suspect the top end ones are all alike in this manner.. The Onan, if power out goes out of range for too long (Brief low frequency/voltage wont' bother it) shuts the engine off and flashes an error code.. I mean if you are not making 120vac,, why burn gas?
I agree with Key.
Dometic also makes a high effiency Compressor unit (or did at one time) these HE units (I have a competitor's chest freezer .. Currently sitting under my coffee cup) Draw less than 50 watts with the door closed (Goes up to around 75 when the light comes on after opening the door to give you an idea of how little that is)
Work great Or at least the chest freezer beside me does
My Freezer (An Engel) is 10 or 11 years old and in that time I've taken it outside a couple of times and blown the dust out of it.. Defrosted several times, and that's all folks.
There are a few good ones there.. Eat Out... Housework (Both of them only the first one is only half right, Housework CAN INDEED kill you) Keep away from Children, several others
You ask how housework can kill you: Well I like to use fictional examples,, Was why a woman died on the TV show Crossing Jordan.
She died, I forget if all or in part, from inhaling fumes from the cleaner they used on the floors.
How do you let go? How can you leave the grand kids, house and everything?
It can be easier than you think... in the old days it was not uncommon for 3 generations (or 4) to live in the same house. In fact when I was a child, once my parents settled down, it was less than 100 yards from Grandma's house (Across the shared driveway) and when Grandpa died Grandma moved in with us and we rented out the old house.
3 generations in the same house
But then we kids moved One went north, One moved around a bit and wound up west, I went east and my youngest sister went way east (Cape Cod) (The rest of us were in MI)
Now I'm full time RV so I can visit.. My daughter left home and went to Las Vegas, then came to S.E. GA and now lives in Wyoming with Grandchild (and Son in Law, yes she did it properly).
SO for me.. not as hard.. Your "kids" will likely move out eventually as well.
LET GO is an app for a smart phone, One of the "Re-cycle" apps like E-bay or Craig's list.