In my research about double towing (truck+ 5er+ ball trailer) do your research! Do not accept the 'guides ' as accurate.
Not surprised. Back when I started out I was reading many "Do I need Aux Brakes on my Towed" and at that time EVERY web page I visited got at least Michigan wrong. I don't know the law in other states so can not comment on them. Still can't. There has been some improvement in the last decade, but I'd still not trust the web sites. Check out the code in the target states.
Two suggestiosn. You can likely getp on Black Friday for about $150.00
Batteries Plus.. Though I must say I'm not always happy with the life of their Ray-O-Vac batteries, they do work and I've salvaged some when they fail.
Not sure if they failed because of something Ray-o-Vac did or Dell though.
A lot depends on the run. First. Your existing coax likely has a 'Break" in the roof. This is so the exposed cable between roof and antenna can be replaced without replacing the entire cable (A very good design)
You can use the cable from the switch box to the roof, but you need to disconnect from the switch box.
RG-59 is normally what you have and that is not really speced for Sat use but the run is short enough you should be able to get away with it. Just figure however many feet of RG-59 you have, Multiply by 5 to get the effective length of RG-6. In mny case the RG-59 Run is less than 10 feet
NOTE: if your RV is "Sat Preped" odds are somewhere near the center of the roof is a buried length of Coax and a pair of 12 volt wires as well.. There may have been a sticker at one time, or a "Vent" (in my case) the wires are under same. Use a cable tracker to find them if you have them. (Will be cables in teh Electronics bay labeld "SAT".
From experience you have sir life, but not all that much. I did that a few times for one reason or another and my Interstate 6Vs lasted 9 years as the chassis battery which was not run down being isolated. I figure they might have made 10 without running them down.
Starting batteries however... Well you MIGHT recover once, but you are pressing it even then.. one of the differences between DEEP CYCLE and Starting/marine/deep cycle.
They are more likely just Sealed Valve Regulated, not AGM, Just maintenance free.
however you said you are getting ready to replace at 5 years. That argues for AGM (My Maintenance free nearly lasted twice as long, 9 years)
That said however nothing wrong with AGM's. They are decent starting batteries (Save for Optima, and in some cases Optima are best, otherwise they are just expensive).
the major disadvantage in this use is cost. .They cost more, and no benefits.
Ther eare many types of brake systems, I will cover some of them with occasional example.
Ready Brake (Suge brakes) when the towed pushes against the motor home these apply the brakes. In theory and practice these are very simple systems and very little can go wrong.. BUT. Very little is not nothing. Does your regular hand brake work properly? in many cases it does not for the cable is rusted and binding, Same can happen to the Surge brake systems if not watched. Still it is the system I want.
Controlled brake systems (US Gear Unified Brake Decelarator many others). These have a control box in the motor home cockpit. Very good systems. They use the power of the motor home to apply the brakes in some way. The one I mentioned by name is possaibly the best of this as it gives the driver full control over the TOWED brakes, same a a Semi has over his trailer. Only one that does this.
Motor home air brake systems (M&G if it fits and some others. These work best with motor homes that have air brakes. but can be used with any Motor home.
Advantages of ALL the above systems. Once installed (one time) hook up takes only a couple seconds and is very easy. So no motive to say "Forget it".
Installed independent systems.. These use an inertial sensor so when the towed is slowing, they assist.. no hook up, a switch to flip is all. They do draw pwoer from teh towed battery (Addition of the Towed Charge system might help).
Box in the driver's seat (Classic Brake buddy, Even brake) Like the above, but with the additional advantage of you can easily move from one vehicle to another if you have a "Stable" of toweds.
Also the DISadvantage of you must install them EVERY time you tow. and each installation is a chance to mess up.
Also it is easy to say "oh forget it, we are only going a few miles" And regret that decision later.
They do make 3 position Transfewr switches. I've seen one mess up and burn out the inverter.
Inverters come in two x two types and many sizes.
First types: In line, stand alone
In-line are typically inverter/charegers.. They have 120vac inm, and out. And a built in transfer switch for the loads they powewr
Stand alone: These just turn 12 volt into 120 volt ac Period
MSW/ TSW (or PSW).. True/Pure sine wave is best, i'm going to end that here for bandwidth issues.
500 watts or less: often factory installed,m Just enough for the main Entertainment center.
1000 2000 watts.. This adds some additional stuff, possibly the GFCI chain or the bedroom. or a Residential Fridge..
2000-3000 watts: add the Microwave,
3000 and UP this is enough to run a single A/C. This type may be used with a "Whole House" 3-way transfer (And in fact is the one I saw "Smoked".)
I do not recommend this because A/C's at 13.5 amps (Mine) that's 135 amps at 12 volt. plus overhead and inverter loss, Will run my batteries down in almost no time flat. And that is far too much load for the Alternator.
How to wire an inverter so it does NOT power Water heater, Roof top A/Cs and the like.
Main panew--branch--Invwerter--_Sub panel--Inverter loads (TV GFCI Microwave)
The main (Generator/shore) transfer is before the main panel.
The size of the branch breaker (mine is 30 amp) depends on the inverter.
The "Sub Panel" may be part of the inverter,, or not.
Camper complained "half my outlets are not workign including the microwave"
I ask if he had an inverter as we walked to his rig.
First door he opened was batteries
Second was invewrter
One breaker was clearly off (Bad design, the breakers are supposed to be around back where you have to feel for 'em but these were right there ewere you coudl see 'em clearly)
Turned it back on and ask him to go in and check.
Wife asks him (As he enteres) "Does he think he can help??"
Husband, noting light on Microwave clock "He's already fixed it".
I love it when the job makes me look like a rock star :)
Those are common "Christmas Tree" lights. You said there are 10 per stake, so get ye to the Christmas Store and look for replacement bulbs for a 10 light string.
The "Star" pulls off the light, you can either repe teh entire lamp assemble (lamp and base) or you can replace just the lamp (Lamp with wire leads, you remove the old bulb and insert the new one)
Like the standard Tree string only one bulb need to be bad, The Christmas store sells a few different "Bulb Checkers" that will help you find the bad one.
or you can just replace all 10.
Ok What is happening:
Light bulbs of that type are what is called a Positive Coefficient Resistor.
What this means:
Resistor.. The glowing wirem, electronically that is a resistor. (A device that impedes the flow of electrons) Like a flow restriction device in a shower head.
Positive (Temperature) Coefficient. Means the hotter it gets.... The higher the resistance.
Cold it has a very low resistance.. but as it heat up, the resistance goes up, way way way up..
In fact I use a light bulb as a fuse her ehe motor home.. Cold, the normal draw on that circuit is not enough to even dimly light the lamp. but if there is a short, Light limits the current flow to a level that won't burn down the house.
How to tell the wattage of the bulb.
Plug it in, measure current.
lots of trailers come with the axles flipped. flipping them will raise the trailer center of gravity, that does have an affect on stability. How much, who knows.
And it's slightly higher to get into or out of. But you get more clearance and may make leveling the trailer for towing easier.
My position exactly but I'll address the raised entrance
Make a step box.. Depending on how high the trailer is raised
Take a 2x 12, and that is your "Step" it should be as long or slightly longer than the steps are wide.
Now, depending on the rise you can sue a 4x4 two of them 11 1/2" long or a pair of 2x6 or even a length of 2x12 to bring the step up so it's a natural step entering into RV
Here is the challange.. NOTE you can do this with just a car, or you can do it with your FULL RV.
Drive, some distance (100 miles would be nice) round trip that way the "Up/Down" hill is balanced out.. Before the trip fill the tank, and note the odometer reading.. Upon return (Start/end the trip at the same filling station) note the odometer and the gallons needed to fill Computer your MPG and post.
Now Wax ON, Wax Of as the martial expert told his student.
Make the same, exact trip.. Make the same exact observations (Odometer start/End, Gallons to re-fill)
You just might not believe the new number for MPG.
Fact: This is using the instant MPG indicator on the dash.
Avaerage 8MPG for most driving Original towed did not seem to affect, new towed (lighter) does cost me MPG)
After waxing (NOT towing) I hit 11, towing 10 (With new towed)
Same road for all readings.
Story of a few camp hosts I know of
Three had health issues and checked into the body shop (Hospital) for a few days
One had a legal matter to take care of "Back home" and had to leave for a month.
Then there was a Hurricane.
And that is just one campground.. So yes, it's not uncommon for the host to be absent WITH leave from time to time.
So long as it is your router (A Jet pack is part router) yes, you can connect printer and computer via it provided your do not have too many "Clients" on the router (Most Jet Packs are client limited, often to five)
I have 9 clients here and am working on more
Computer (laptops) 1`and 2
Server 1 (Desktop)
ReplayTV 1 and 2
Want a 3rd laptop or cromebook (I'm really using laptop 2 for an off-purchase reason job that a chromebook could do as easily)
Am wanting a Raspberry PI as well (May replace the Chromecast cause it is not exactly as advertised (no surprise)
One comnputer is used mostly for "Plan B" motgor home repair (Plan B is to win PCH,, Least you think I'm holding my breath Plan A is more likely to happen and in fact should be ready about the 1st of the year.. If not sooner.. But Plan B would be nice Very nice)
from bottom, Crank handle -> washer -> spring -> directional handle.
Suggestion: Next time you go RV supplies shopping Grab a spare handle they have been known to break and when they do a spare.. is nice.
I agree with Deprived, Most likely culprit is the start cap..
A bit of motor theory
There are 2 or 3 windings (The 3rd is always the same) the two however are "phased" the Start cap causes them one to slightly "lead" the other, this causes the motor to rotate.. If not for this winding AC type motors would never start rotating. If the start cap is kaput. Then this start winding is basically.. Not there. a 10 dollar part (likely in a box nearby) is all you need. I carry a spare for Carrier, but also hopefully I won't have a carrier soon.
DC motor work.... Differently.
But Big A/C motors need that start cap or they might run backwards if at all. (Some smaller motors also work.... Differently)
I have had an accident where I did not see the other car, and I looked, there was nothing there (I think they had headlights off) What can I say, at least the police report shows NO INJURIES, Property damage only (they later claimed injury but the police report said NO)
I often hear of people who pull out in front of something way bigger than they.. For example for a few years I road as a communications person on some Vintage Rail gear (Genuine Steam Engines pulling vintage rail cars)( this was in the 1980's or 90's (I think late 80s)
The year before.. Some teens thought they could beet the many tons Steam engine , coal tender and water bottle,m not to mention the consist behind it, (engine and tender Weight: 573,000 lbs They did not survive. Sadly the stress got to the conductor and he had a heart attack later that evening.
Oh according to the museum link I just got the weight from this is the last remaining Train engine of it's class.
Sadly the CEO of Norfolk and Southern retired so this living exhibit is not a static Museum piece. It no longer travels down the rails.
It could be worse: Though the people were nicer in this case.
Park where I am has a dump station, Well one couple evaucated via RV (5th wheel) to avoid Matthew.. They got back but their tanks needed dumping so they called the park owner to ask if he'd give 'em a break and not charge 'em the $15.00 dump fee the park charges.. he agreed (kind hearted guy that he is.. I'm serious here about that, he really is kind hearted)
Well they pulled off the road (you are supposed to stay on the road) ran over the sewer line (Soft ground and not very deep) breaking the line and getting well and truly stuck, then they tried to rock the rig free (read that dug in deeper) and not the Owner is out there repairing the lines.. My saw, His shovel
At least they were nice about it.
Tow truck (heavy duty tows are EXPENSIVE) and of course they are going to get a bill for the plumbing. Meanwhile 5 sites can't dump (does not affect me, different line).
Two or three possible issues:
Dead spot on motor. Had this with my Steps on this Class A.. now on your jacks, this is not as easily fixed so I won't describe how I fixed it.
Bad switch. Sometimes the switch works one way only (**Suspect #1**)
Bad relay, if that is relays are used (#2)
To test the switch...
Switch will have either 3 or 4 terminals. if the wires are very heavy duty (like 10 or 12 ga) it will likely have 4 terminals Power, Ground Motor 1and motor two, Identify the MOTOR leads using a volt meter and using clip on test leads or jumpers connect the meter to it.
Operate teh switch, if you see Positive battery voltage one way, and negative the other the switch is working,,, IF you see boltage (Battery) when the motor does not extend.. (or Retract) the switch is not the problem.
If the switch has 3 wires.
Battery (hot all the time) UP and Down.
Use the meter to confirm which wire is the problem direction (will only have voltage when you command jack to go in that direction) Now leave it hooked up.
if the motor does NOT operate.. Does the meter show full voltage or something much lower Full means it's not the switch, Lower it is
Relays need to be located to test, but the test is fairly simple
Hook meter to motor leads as in the 4 wire switch test. Same test.
I would contact a propane dealer, tell them your concerns and let them inspect it and make recommendations. A RV dealer likely would just R&R the tank.
I will second that advice.... And after a proper inspection by a qualified professional (NOT a gas station pump jockey but someone who certifies portable tanks at the minimum) you will likely find the advice to sandblast and re-paint is what is suggested.
Propane tanks are quite robust. Takes a lot of rust to damage them. Serious pitting in fact.. They generally do not need replacement. Just paint.