Ok, here is Surge Protector 101
There are SPIKE protectors, these are marketed as surge protectors but the difference is a SPIKE is a brief increase in voltage, happens when, for example, the Compressor on the A/C shuts down. Usually less than 1/60th of a second (in fact often less than 1/120th of a second) The device contains a device called an MOV (Metal Oxcide Varisistor) which is a resistor that responds to voltage, Go too high and it becomes a near short circuit.
An RV surge protector includes this function, HOWEVER it is much much more, this is why it is more expensive.. It monitors Voltage, Frequency and occasionally waveform (model dependent) and if any go "out of range" it will shut off power to the RV.
Now I've seen a surge last several seconds. The MOV's "Surge Protectors" in my basement sounded a lot like the firworks display on Independence day. I mean firecrackers by the dozen (I had quite a few of them) cost me 130 bucks for a new computer power supply and a new blower motor for the furnace. (This was a stick house)
A RV park I used to stay at had the same problem, Many folks lost TV's and Microwaves and Converters. This one was the power company's fault (so was mine) and they paid to fix.
The RF-Type surge protector like the Progressive Industries HW-50C or PT-50c (For 30 amp RV's change the number) will protect against this kind of thing.
Their lower cost spike supressor, which is marketed as a surge protector (industry standard labeling) WILL NOT protect against this kind of thing.
Another thing. Many 30 amp RVers (or 50 with adapter) have plugged into the 30 amp outlet in someone's garage (Oh folks do it all the time) and ZZZZZAAAAPPPPPP let the magic smoke out,,,,cause that outlet was for a welder and it's 240 volt.
The Units I praised above.. WILL PREVENT DAMAGE
Finally Where I am. we have had a large number of "power Blinks" this is where power is lost for less than one minute..NOT ENOUGH TIME for the compressor on my Air Compressor to re-cycle and prepare to restart (When this happens the compressor attemps to re-start with a full, or near full, head of pressure. This means a "Stalled rotor" condition and it really does damage)
Well my TMC "Surge Guard" holds power off for nearly 3 minutes, add the control unit in the A/c's few seconds of hold off and you have 3 minutes.. The recommended wait time between OFF and back ON.
If the voltage drops too low the fridge will switch to gas.
Also: I have found Many RVers have a few screws loose.. No, not those, the ones in the power distribution box.. One of mine took over 2 full turns before I even felt resistance and another FULL TURN to be tight, with the screws this loose teh wires rattle around in the clip and make and break.
There are several other connections that can be flakey as well. Some I've found
Outlets.. the "Qick boxes" are basicall junk, pull much over 10 amps they melt.
and in power line order
THe park outlet (house outlet) Screw loose, bad connection, bad breaker, other issues
The plug, screws loose unless welded connection, bad weld.
The shore cord outlet (if any) this is for detachable cords. had one fall off in my hand once, all six of the internal screws were loose. Let me tell you the owner of that RV was **NOT** a happy camper.. Would loved to have been there when he returned to his dealer.. We got him working.
The INLET (mine, one screw
The Transfer Switch (Only applies to rigs that have 'em, this one is rare though)
And a few Junction boxes.
And last, this is very very very very rare.. I had a wire go bad.. Yup, a couple of feet from the end of the wire (This was a DC lead) was a "bulge" I cut it open and it's all corrosion, no connection, cut back both ways to good wire, Solidered and sealed, all good since.
Ok, how to do this may take a bit of reading but first access the Antenna pointing page. On VIP receivers you wait for it to fail, then press the * Key on the remote if I recall correctly..
Now, on the antenna page enter the ZIP CODE that applies to your parking spot and then select sat 110 or 119 (i'd go for 119)_ and the type of antenna you have (500 or 1000) You will get 3 numbers
Azimuth, Elevation, Skew
On the tripod, Make sure the mast the dish is mounted on is plumb (Straight up and down, not tilted (Shim and adjust as needed to get there.. Then tie the tripod down DO NOT SWING WEIGHTS, make sure the weight (if you use that method) sits upon the ground, or stake it down (The CLAW from Harbor Freight)
Now preset the Elevation and tighten just enough to be snug, Likewise the skew (Tilt)
Now while watching a portable color TV attached to the Receiver SLOWLY swing the dish through the azimuth (use a compass) I like to start on the east side and work west.. When it peaks, Snug that down a bit, Now push/pull gently on the top to mess with the elevation and see if the signal improves/gets worse. If it improves peak it and re-adjust azimuth. You should not need more than 3 itterations (2 repeats) to finish the job. now tighten well, Job done.
1: The hardest part of this is waiting for a VIP to error out so you can press the * key.
2: By the time yove done it a few times you will finish faster than I typed this and I type fast.
From the sounds of it the control board may be toast.. By the way all is not lost.
On this system the ONLY thing the A/C has to do with the furnace is a single relay, this relay replaces the contacts on a thermostat, it turns the furnace on and off (NOTE the rear control system has this ability as well, it's just not wired in to the furnace since the wires go to the front.
Now here is the problem. The problem might be fixable, A full visual inspection of the control board and the wiring in the front unit may yeild joy
For testing: Go outside, access the furance from outside you may find a switch (Really a circuit breaker) on top of the blower housing.. TURN IT OFF, this kills the furnace (yippie).
Now you won't have dualing HEVAC systems, Restore power (12 volt) if the wires look good. inspect all the wiring and traces.. Good chance a relay is the culprit.. Theory has it you can find replacements for those..
If worse comes to worse you can try and find a new Carrier Air V control board, or a used one on E-bay.. Failing that I will have a spare come tomorrow.. However I really do not wish to part with it, I plan on keeping it just in cuss my other one goes bad.
In speaking with another Winnie owner tonight during a power outage, he mentioned that his TV was running on the inverter during the outage. My Question: are there special outlets that are designated to supply 120V when no shore power is on, and if so, Where, oh where can they be? I have a Freedom 2 Kw inverter, but have never found anything that it does, other than charge the batteries. The inverter was changed out about 2 years ago, but I never noticed if it was any different before then.
While I do not yet know if the Freedom is like mine.. I know my inverter has the ability to be "Turned off" I can set it as follows:
1: OFF: Nothing passes, it will not even pass power to outlets
2: ON but non operational. Both Inverter and charger disabled. It will pass power to outlets, but will not invert or charge batteries
3: inverter on (Standby/Operating auto switch) in this mode it will pass power IF present or invert (make 120 volts) and send it on if needed
4: Converter/charger on (makes 12 volt out of 120 volt shore/generator power)
5: Both 3 and 4
You may have the inverter disabled. BINGO this is from the owner's manual:
Freedom Inverter/Charger Operation
Start Up Behavior
When the Freedom SW is powered up
or has been reset, all of the
front panel LEDs turn on and remain on for a minimum of five
seconds. During this interval, the fans are also turned on as the unit
executes internal diagnostics.
Out of the box from the factory,
when the Freedom SW is powered
up (that is, when AC and DC powe
r sources are connected) for the
first time, the inverter function
is disabled by default. After
powering up, the
button (or the “Up” button
on the SCP) can be used to enable or disable inverter function. See
“Inverter Operation Using the Front Panel” on page 16 and “Enable/
disable inverter function (
Instructions can be found on page 25.
Probably a lot less. Don't know for sure.
Give it a try.
Let us know what you find.
Delete the word "Probably" in the above post. For sure a lot less, Give the following test.
hook up your clamp on ammeter to the wire going up to the roof (At the circuit breaker is the easiest hookup)
Turn on in FAN ONLY mode.. measure amps (like 1-2?
Not switch to cool. it will spike then drop down. If no Refrigerant you will likely see 5 amps or less (about double the fan or less)
That ... Is the state of one of mine just now
NOTE: When the first of my two 13.5's failed, I replaced it with a 15K.. Amp draw is... IDENTICAL to the older 13.5.
Given the fact that the last several years have all set the "Hottest year on record" redcord. .I'd recommend the upgrade.
We can not advise any overweight limit..
I would like to THINK that there is some "Wiggle room" I know if I were designing there would be "Wiggle Room" but the fact is I DO NOT DESIGN THEM.
and in today's world of "Almighty God's a Dollar and there's not enough for me"
Adding an extra little bit of strength, well that's going to cut into profit, so they shave off all they can to increase profit. Thus I can not advise going over, in fact rather the opposite. Even the rated weight might worry me.
We have Dish Network in our 5th-wheel. Receiver is a VIP-211z (2 yrs old) and the antenna is a Tailgater (about 5 yrs old).
For the past 2 years I cannot receive in HD mode. (Note: when receiving via OTA antenna I get HD just fine.) I wonder if the problem is the receiver or the antenna? I suspect the antenna.
How to determine which, if either, has gone bad? Any ideas?
Someone said "Are you sure you get HD from DISH?"
Dish advertised a few years ago that HD was included, at no extra cost on EVERY account.. So yes he's getting HD from DISH
You said you get HD OTA but not From Sat.. Different receivers. OTA HD may be included in your sat receiver or your TV. I get it on the TV.
Some Dish receivers are not set up for HD (Older ones) the antenna however (Tailgater) should be unless your view of the needed satellite is blocked.
Also how is the Receiver connected to the TV
HDMI. (High Definition Multimedia Interface) is required.
COAX will not do it as the receiver transmits in NTSC not ATSC.
I would like to see PHotobucket banned from these forums. Dropbox works in fact the forums have a dropbox account for us to use for photo posting but Photobucket will not display any photos on my system. so if you want my help and you send me a photobucket link.. You will not get any help from me.
I do agree five bucks ($4.99) is a good price, Most of those are closer to 25 bucks give or take a bit.
My favorite is an expanded range analog from MFJ enterprises, it has "pass through" and a lovely backlight... But the Kill-a-watt is my #2 (Digital) and another expanded range Analog (pictured above) #3
I use all 3 all the time K-A-W on the inverter (GFCI) outlet, others monitor L-1 and L-2.
I have "Fixed" a few that way
Had a man who was saving money on haircuts (Read that tearing his hair out) trying to figure out the problem.. I mentioned the outside shower. The next morning his hair was growing back in.
It is a common problem.... There is another common problem too, I can't have that one but others have I've fixed one of those as well.
This story does not involve a 70 year old, but it illustrates the point I'll make at the bottom. (NOTE: Some college professor of law says you should never talk to a cop about anyting.. Uh, the man in this story is a Deputy Sheriff, in fact Chief Deputy (#2 man in the departmetn, equal to undersheriff in other departmetns)
He was 56 years old when he got the job, Had to go back to the Federal Law Enforcement Training Center for a refresher course.. his classmates are all 20 somethings.. (Assorted 20's) Well One day they had an "Endurance" test. the 20 somethings were all strutting like peacocks "Now we are going to show the old man a thing or two" (You see for George this was all review so he was doing real good in class, his 3rd time through it, First as a Deaputy, then as another job, this time as chief)
Well, at the end of the next day, as all those 20-somethings crawled to their cars for the trip home, and George strolled normally to his..... They had to change their thinking. Turns out the "Old man" was in dang good shape.
The point of all this
Age is the difference between the date on your birth certificate and today's date
Should you tow or not is more a physical condition thing, I know people much younger than I who are unsafe due to their physical condition.. And I know people much older (Well not that much) who are safe. (i'm 65)
Second true story: "Kid" dials 9-1-1 (my phone number that hour) and I answer. He tells me he's going to the hospital but he is not sure he'll make it, Describes his textbook symptoms (And I have the book in front of me).. (Break), I talk him into a parking spot and call EMS so the hospital comes to him (Return), He ends the text book description with "It can't be my heart, I'm only 27".. Well if you guessed he was describing heart attack you get an "A". And he was 27, He is older now. The Medic hung up his phone for him and he was still breathing (And talking) when the medic got there so he survived (Help arrived before he fully arrested the odds of recovery approach 100% in S.E. Michigan)
My younger brother had his heart attack about 8 years ago.
I've not had one yet, Though I have had heart problems, (lesser) they were treated and shoudl not return, and if they do I know the symptoms and what to do about it. (Ok what to do is go to hospital but I'm safe to drive there)
True story: Some years ago a family was having problems with harassers. These jerks were not even neighbors but kids that came into the neighborhood to try and drive this family out it seems.. Forget their "Reason".. But the home owner finally got his video camera, and a bunch of cardboard or corrorgated paper (I do not know which) and made a mask for his front window, set the camera up behind the mask (Small hole just big enough for the lense) and filmed the front yard. When the Jerks next trashed his place...... The camera got some really nice action photos.
Convictions followed shortly. FELONY level convictions.
I see you went from CO to CO/Propane
Normally a CO detector is high mounted and a Propane/Explosive gas near the floor
And Methane (Sewer gas) is an explosive gas so if the detector is detecting. It's working properly So is butane (often used as propellent) and alcohol, and gasoline vapor, and many other products you might have lying about.