That works if you use the dry method (Blow the lines out with air, Use PINK only in drains and tolets, no Pink in the fresh system.
Which by the way is how I suggest you do it.
If you do it the way you suggest you may end up with pink stuff in the heater, this wont' damage anything, but you will have fun come spring getting rid of it, Multiple flushes.
That Discount code is only good for the initial order I fear TRB. but Ham Nation is good. period.
Oh, Bob Heil, who along with Gordon West are the founders... You can hear him on WTWW (wtww.us)Transmitter #2 at 2PM and I think 9PM eastern... He plays a Theater Organ. If you do not have a short wave receiver.. Net stream exists as well.
I have wired my fridge so I can choose to run off inverter.... Or not.. Turns running it off inverter is more power (350 watts) than the engine delivers so the batteries run down.. Who'd a thunk it.
Of course there are some outlets that I do want on the inverter from time to time so when I want power to them. I force the Fridge to GAS and flip the selector switch (30 amp tansfer) and it ..> Transfers.
I have two Flex Seal products here.. one is the liquid, I've yet to open the container.. The other is Flex Seal Bright (White) Spray.. I bought it to insulate some wires I was working on, So far no complaints, they are not exposed to sunlight.. I also used it .. Well the story is kind of long but the windshield washer bottle on my car got damaged.. No leaks since applying multiple coats of Flex Seal.. I also have a 1" Sewer hose, The story here is I cut a foot or so off the end of my Free with purachase of a new motor home el-cheapo hose.. Put a female bayonet fitting on one end and the elbow to go into the ground on the other.. Well it developed some pin-hole leaks (These hoses often do) so I sprayed it with Flex Seal... So far, So good (that was 2 years ago)
never even considered it for the roof
Brush on is black (Roof is white, and when i say Wite I mean that after I mop it in the spring and fall you need to take precautions against Snow Blindness if you are up there.. I kid you not. this is an 11.5 year old RV and the roof is still blinding white when cleaned)
The white stuff I"m told yellows fairly quickly.. I like that Snow Blind White.. Wish the rest of the RV was white (A/C works better, Furnace too when the RV is white or better yet silver)
Short answer: YES!!!!!!!!!!
Longer answer: Most crock pots are well under 1,000 watts in fact many are less than 500 watts.. Well within the ability of your charging system.
Even better answer: Burton Stove to Go
This is a "lunch box" size device, like a lunch box it latches closed, it's also a slow cooker, runs on either 12 volt or 120 volt (i've lost one of my cords though) 12 volt is a bit iffy however.. i did install a HD 12 volt (20 amp rated) outlet with heavy wire (10ga) and a 20 amp fuse to run it. Fits very nicely in the small side of my sink, Works great for dinner for two.. (it is small) You can find 'em at some truck stops. We used to drop in a liner, (looks like a foil loaf pan, get it at the same truck stop) some chicken and stuff, Set it in the sink plug it in and ... By the time we were parked and set up.. Dinner was served.
Today it's one of 3 slow cookers in the house. and a Dutch Oven I can use as a Slow cooker on top of that. (Can you say I like slow cookers).
Sounds to me like a couple wires in that Sub Panel are crossed (that is hooked up wrong)
NOTE: Caution, you will be working with HOT wiring, SHOCK hazard, Take precautions or get someone who knows what the blazes he's doing (IE: ME) to do these tests... I also have the hardware.
how to test, You need a 120 volt test light or multi-meter. I like test lights cause they are "Quick and dirty"
Turn off ALL breakers in the box.. One probe to the white wire bus You can even screw it down if you like (makes it easier to do this test)
now probe the black wires
IF any wire connected to a breaker is "hot" that is your problem NO breaker wires shoudl be HOT
There is also supposed to be a black wire hooked to a bus bar.. The bar the breakers connect with (A black wire not connected to a breaker) This one SHOULD be HOT. if it' snot, your box is mis-wired.
If you are in S.E. Ga.. So am I.
At the outlet it pluggs into check for power (Test lamp at least 100 watts, trouble lamp, drop cord, that kind)
At the element.. Disconnect wires and use Multi Meter to measure resistance, YOu should see 1 OHM or less (near short, meter may indicate a short) the element is less than 1 ohm hot.
The connector to the device has two round as I recall "hollow" contacts (Socket type) With the tank cold they should show power as well
NOTE, test this carefully
No power to outlet.. Well it don't work w/o 120vac,, Find out why
No contenunity in element.. need new element,,, odds are that is NOT your problem less you ran it dry.
No power at element connector.. Bad T-Stat-Bad cord-Bad plug.
T-Stat is suspect #1
Man does that sound familure..
It shut down 3 times, then it locked out.
Now I did a major diagnosis job, I verified the thermocouple (which on my unit doubles as one of the spark contacts) was putting out the required 480mV (it was) I checked many other things and finally decided the control board was bad.
I contacted American RV in California (NOTE: Many States including Michigan and Georgia have companies called American RV, all different companies, you want the Californian one) (The other two I mentioned one put my new A/C on and the other does my oil changes).
I ordered a new DINOSAUR board, less than half the price of an OEM board.
Now I'm trained as an electronics technici9an, i've dabbled in electronics for ovewr 50 years.. When I opened the box my first impression was QUALITY, and upon closer inspection and comparision to the OEM board it was QUALItY!!!!!!!!!!!. Then I turned the board over and well. lets just say the font got bigger and more exclamation points. .. I have a theory as to what killed my OEM board.. Well seems the good folks at Dinosaur boards share it because right were it needs to be to prevent the failure I had is a handy dandy Gas Discharge type Spike supressor. I did have to make a minor change to how I mount it (used a Zip-Tie or two) but other than that.. Straight plug in replacement. and as of last week when I last used it.. Still working. (it was 2012 when I installed it)
If you want I can .. oh heck I will... Here is my trouble shooting boiler plate:
(This was created as I diagnosed my Furnace back in 2012.. Lots of time went into it, it's been vetted, I think I had to add one line after that as there was one thing I missed.. but if anyone knows anything I missed, PLEASE TELL ME, thank you.. nOTE most of it also applies to water heaters and all other DSI devices)
This document was created while I was diagnosing MY furnace.. I am told I missed one possible issue... Sadly I forget if I updated the document or not and the issue Bad connections anywhere along the line can lower voltage
When the T-Stat calls for heat the control board starts the blower (1)
The blower blows closing the sail switch (2)
The control board then opens the gas valve (3) and begins sparking (4.1)
Gas Flows (5) And ignitets (4.2)
The flame heats the flame sensor (5)
The flame sensor sends .480 volts to the control board (6)
which then detects the .480 and continues operation (*)
When the T-stat says "Enough already" (RV is now warm)
The control board shuts off the gas flow (*)
and then turns off the blower after a cool down (*)
*: At nearly every step the control board is involved. IF IT IS BAD, things will not work.. I recommend replacement boards from Dinosaur boards.. When Mine went out the Dino board was less than half the price and when opened the box the quality of construction and workmanship, and then design was very clear to my trained eyes.
1: No 12 volt to furnace, blower motor shot
2: Low 12 volt, air ducts clogged, blower "obstructed" bad sail switch
3: Bad solenoid, Clogged Gas Jet
4: .1: Bad ignition circuit (high voltage) on control board. .2: Points too wide (Very common it seems)
5: These do not often fail but they can
5: Bad connection, NOTE:
5 and * Bad wire.
* applies to all steps by the way So does bad wire/connection.
You can get good old fashion Shaving soap, And Brushes, at Most Wallgreens stores.. I've found 'em from time to time at WAl*mart, and other places but Wallgreens is a regular.
I use a Harry's Razor (Direct buy from Germany) myself, with Soap and brush.
OH, you can also ask your barber to get some for you..
Back in the 70s Fuller Brush sold a mug/brush set that was a bit different. (With soap) I was a Fuller Brush man back then and gave my dad one..
Myself I got a pewter Mug from I think Williams company (They make Shaving Soap and brushes) that I still have.. 40+ years later.. Did have to get a new brush or two in that time however.
The Harry's Razor gives ONE CLOSE SHAVE I can tell you.. I can tell you how to get a discount code for them.. but I don't sell them
(Google HAM NATION, Harry's is a sponsor, they give out the discount code)
One of the things I fail to understand is folks who say "I could never understand the Metric System" wile getting their change at a cash register
10 pennies in a dime
10 dimes in a dollar
10 dollars in a 10-spot
10 ten-spots in a C-note
10 C-notes in a Kilobuck (Grand).
Shall I go on.
Yup, Money is metric.
One of the labs I ran had a cold room. When asked how cold we could make it, I would always answer -40.
Then someone would invariably ask, "Is that F or C?"
Wait for it......
I would answer, "Yes".
Some years ago a magazine I read had a question of the month.. Now as it turns out that was the question one month. I got it by inspection, then did the math and confirmed it.
But I've always liked that.. Friend of mine hit -60 but I forgot to ask which, think F.
ON the other hand your body is Metric.. Don't believe me.. Convert 98.6 F to C and see what happens... Let's do that
98.6-32 = 66.6 (Oh. Oh, that's not a nice number)
66.6*5 = 333.0 Now we divide that by 9
333/9= 37.0 Decrees C
So there you have it your body is Metric :)
Folks, Since I did not bother with the calculator program I might have made an error in math so please check it out.
Yes and no... My Xantrex Prosine 2.0 is a 2000 watt single phase 120 volt inverter. HOwever there is a jack on it, Standard modular Telephone type jack
Put two of 'em side by side.. Connect one of the output wires together, Plug in a cable to the two jacks, and you have exactly what you are asking about, a 240 volt Split phase inverter (120--120 240 volt end to end. Just like shore power.
They come in other sizes as well. Now the Prosine is no more (They discontinued) but I'm sure they have other models that work much the same.
I downloaded it and tried it. So far not impressed but I've got to give it more time, Appears it may, eventually, take me on a guided tour but not today, Perhaps tomorrow when I have more time to let it just sit there.
Best Converters clearly believes in Progressive Dyanmics.
One thing I've learned, Usually with electronics, if they are going to fail under warranty, they will do it before the ink dries on the sales agreement.
Generally if they last a year, they last 10 years or more. Baring owner abuse however.
Sounds like dirt to me.
There are some serious high voltages inside a microwave.. now if there is some dirt build up on some of the components this can happen (Dust and such).
Now I Will caution SHARP EDGES ON METAL PARTS, HANDLE WITH CARE OF HEAVY GLOVES OR BOTH.
Now... Remove the unit from the RV to the picnic table,, Remove the outer cover... Inspect visually (Do not touch internal parts) see if you can find evidence of an arc (Chared anything)
If you see an accumulation of dust/ or whatever, blast with compressed air, don't have a compressor, buy a can of "Dry Air" from a photo department (used to clean camera lenses) and use it.... Then reassemble.
now.. i've worked on Microwaves, all the way down to working on the high voltage circuit.. But I'm not suggesting you do that.. The kind of voltages on that cap are... Impressive.