East penn Battery makes Deka and MK, DEKA, is, I believe, their "Good" line,
I had MK AGMs. was not impressed but I just put DEKA's in this motor home times 3 (two GC-2 one Group 78 starting battery)
They are still MADE IN THE USA by the way, not imported. With other brands I'm never so sure.
I have not found it to be innaccurate, But with web pages (not Antenna Helper) I have had them give me the vector to the STUDIO instead of the Transmitter.
Now in some cases (IE: Channels 2 and 7 in Detroit) the difference is measured with a yard stick, and not many of them (like 50 yards) but in other cases (Channel 41 Battle Creek or Chan 3 Kalamazoo.. Closer to 40 miles.
But then on all the above I have been to the transmitter sites (Well close enough, in some cases in the site parking lot).
From what I can tell, Antenna Helper is giving me Tower sites, not studio sites.
In theory that kind of inverter/converter will have a built in ATS, You should be able to feed it, likely with 10ga wire and a 30 amp breaker, off the main panel and it should pass through. HOWEVER...
The inverter I have is somewhat like yours.. It has three switches that control it.. (And I can add one more if I wish) on the inverter is a switch, if this switch is OFF, nothing works, Not the inverter, not the charger module and no power passes through. NOTHING.
Then there are switches on the remote they enable or disable the inverter and converter sections.. In addition if shore power is present and the INVERTER is "Enabled" then it goes into "Standby" mode.. automatically, and power is passed. If it is disabled, power is passed.
But if the switch on the inverter itself is off (Or if I add the optional REMOTE and turn it off) Nothing is passed. NO current flows.
I should have 12 volts coming into the fuse block on the converter......
Can you please advise make and model of either 1: Converter or 2: Fuse block if they are one assembly.
Note that some converters, will show voltages different on a DC meter than the effective voltage, The Magnetek 6300 is one such, Others I'd have to look up.
A TEST LAMP is a nice device to have in your took kit, there are two types,
The "Industrial" one, you can buy at an auto parts store, It looks like an old fashion ice pick with a clear or translucent plastic handle, inside the handle is a light bulb and coming out of the handle is a lead with a clip.. This is very good at tracing bad connections Better in fact than a volt meter.
The "Home made" one I also use is a license plate lamp socket (Wedge type) with lamp.. BOTH leads have clips. one is "Extended" like 3 feet. This has the advantage of being able to "Clip" it onto a pair of leads to test switches and such.
That is some impressive battery pack.
And the best battery store I have found (If you like sticks and bricks) is Batteries Plus. They have both S&B and internet stores. I plan to visit one next week.
You may be able to do better shopping the net, but I like a store where I can look at the actual product, not a photo.
Most likely cause... Flat tire on towed, Driver of MH did not sense, tire (likely Right Front) shredded and the rim sparking along the road set fire to the towed.
I have never seen this actually happen but ..... I have dispatched a "high speed chase" where the driver of the work van was higher than a kite on multiple drugs, He ignored police requests to stop, and ran, Finally stop sticks were depoyed and flattened 3 of the 4 tires on the van as I recall. He continued and the tires were totally destroyed, the rims were throwing up a nice "Rooster tail" of sparks which eventually set the van afire.. STILL he refused to stop.. Finally the van died and troopers, at great risk to personal safety, were able to pull him from the remains of the van, 3rd degree burns and all. STILL he fought the troopers and had to be Maced before they could restrain him and transport him to hospital.
But that's why I think it was a flat tire.
I Have seen a towed where the driver of the MH did not know the tire had gone flat from some distance.. Thankfully he found out before the rubber was completly gone but.. The tire was toast.. I told him about TPMS.
Over half a million his motor home cost and he did not know about TPMS.
(Prevost, Very very very very nice rig)
When wife was alive we cleared the counter tops.. For one thing in a sudden stop SHE was in "Front" of the counter and anything flying might hit her.. I am protected from getting hit in the back of the head by a nice sturdy Exterior WALL (the "Front" end of the main slide out).
Today.. I leave several things on the counter.. I use non-skid stuff (that expanded rubber mesh) and so on. And of course some things are up against a bulkehead (Splash panel) that is firmly attached. I have not had a problem doing it this way.
And I've had some fairly seriously shakes and bumps (Pot hole, type shake ups.)
Depending a bit on where you park.. Fairly common.. But you may need to chat with the park manager.
The park where I am.. IF I were to take a lease on the site this is the site I'd want. About oh, 20 yards away (Well within Wi-Fi Range) is a power pole (Electric pole) with all the needed wires hooked to it.. I could put a small cabinet (Rubbermaid) at the base of it, Snag a feed (The park power distribution panel... One of 'em, is right there and I seriously suspect the manager would install an outlet for me if I bought the parts) and set up my own Wi-Fi..
In fact.. If I ever take a lease. I plan to do that.
Then I need to make a decision.. Do I let the others "Share" my link or not.
Currently I let selected folks share my router (Which is a park repeater) however those who tick me off (including my next door neighbor) not so much.
One advantage of my router.. I also give you a local URL (192.168.y.z) with sub page.. you connect to it and you find some Video recordings.. A few movies, and the TF shows I currently have recorded... You can watch my recordings on YOUR computer using only a browser and Media Player. NO SPECIAL programs/applications needed.
If you travel a lot there are 4 states you should consider
I'm nto sure but SD is looking kind of good, save that my birthday is in the winter.. This makes Texas a good choice for me.
So where am I registered? Michigan of course but then... That is where I lived for most of my life and who pays my retirement benefits.
I am, however, looking for a travel companion.
The Web page designer/programmer decides the "Default" name of the bookmark according to how he or she titles the page.. In the good old days folks took pride in their work and would label it something like "Thousand Trails" (The name of the web site) but today far too many of them are lazy and just leave it "HOME" or "ABOUT" (Depending on the sub site page you are one) never bothering to change that name.
When you bookmark, with most browsers, you are presented with a requestor.. on this requestor you can change the name before you OK it.
Of course I'm not sure MSIE works that way. But you should immed check the bookmark in your favorites list and if you do not like the name, Right click and either choose RENAME if offered or PROPERTIES, I will leave you on your own there.
Same here, You can use a can of dry air to blast dust and stuff out of the KB, this may help... It is amazing how much "Crud" collects in those keyboards.
(Or I just use 160 PSI off the crafstman blower)
This problem with intermod and TV-Receiver overload is mentioned in the Sensar Pro manual.. YES, it can happen.. Happens to me in Detroit area, Most places I can fun "Full open" no problem, but I run it down to 10 in the Detroit metro area The station nearest me is a PBS and it is 23 miles, next closest is 45.. Yup, I can run it wide open here :)
(Where I park in Detroit it's more like all of them are 20-25 miles and much higher power)
Is it possible to run it with lid closed... Depends.
There is one way to do it and may be another.
SOME laptops you can set (usually in power options off the control panel) how they respond to a closed lid (Do nothing, sleep, hibernate, turn off monitor) you want turn off monitor but otherwise keep running.
Now you need a Wireless or wired keyboard and mouse, If it has PS/2 Connectors I have KB and mouse but I like wireless and USB.
And an external monitor (Most laptops have provisions but if yours does not and has enough USB ports. go-4-that route)
And that is all there is to it, very easy.
IF you can not find an option to keep it running lid closed.........
Find the tab on the lid that presses the switch and .. Well.. I think you can figure it out.. I DO NOT recommend this save as a last resort.
Are they all created equal: Short answer: NO
Long answer.. I am not qualified to give specifics (Have not done the research)
But: Some compaines make drives optimized for different use, I think it's Western that makes one optimized for video storage for example, and others for data other than video.
Some are faster to store and/or retrieve data
Some companies have better reputations.
I bought my last half Terabyte drive for 250 bucks at Staples last December.. It came with a Toshiba Sattlite C-55d wrapped around it and Windows 8.1 already installed. Best price on a 500 Gig drive I have found.
Thanks for the instructions..... I think I will see just how different the signal is by adding the wingman... At that point I may decide to start adding boxes and the Sensor pro... I do go to the DTV.gov site and see which way I should be facing my antenna as of now...
Might be an easier way to do that if you have a SMART PHONE.
on my 'droid I have an application. TV Antenna Helper FREE.
Note that last word.. It was in the Google Play Store.
Took me like 2 minutes to figure it out but it snags my QTH (location) from the GPS (you know what that TLA is) and then checks the government site to find the transmitter locations (NOT studio as some web pages do) and gives me vectors (Angle/range) and anticipated signal strength..
I can display as a list
On a map (Shows actual tower location, colored lines indicate signal band (Green is good) on a compass (Likewise on color, do not find that one useful) and I think one other option.
Very handy.. Oh, and a good compass helps too. AND there is an app for that as well.. Just search in the store for it.. (There are quite a few) they use the flux gate sensors in the phone.
One thing they forget, When you activate the app. Hold the phone flat and turn around slowly all the way around to "Sync" the thing.
Your isolator is not working.. This consists of two parts on MOST RV's one on a very few. I will describe both.
Most common.. A Solenoid (Also called a Relay or Contactor but in this use Solenoid is the most common name) and a controller for it.
Depending on the controller, it may be a one-way (Engine charges house) or it may be a bi-directional like min (Both charge).
The simple ones may or may not have a delay and sense the ingnition lead.
The more complex ones measure voltage and when the see 13+ they engage
To test you need to find the isolator relay and measure the voltage on the SMALL screws. (the big ones are battery leads) you should see voltage within one minute of starting the coach.. And that voltage may appear and dissappear depending on teh system.. But I suspect it will be constant.
To determine if it is RG-6 find the inside end of it.> RG-6 is larger outside diamater than RG-59.. It is that easy.
NOTE: You have one of two video selectors in your RV, either a box of many buttons (the jacks on the back are labeled, one of them says CABLE and that is the one you are looking for) or a wall plate with a 12 volt outlet, switch, led and antenna connection.
Remove the wall plate, and you should see 2,3 or 4 coax cables, There are a few odd ones out there but the standard is as follows
With the 12 volt outlet at the top
Antenna - Cable - Tv 2 (optional TV 3)
How to connect
Remove cable from wall plate, using a barrel connector (Double female) extend coax to Sat Receiver, Run TV-out from Sat receiver to just vacated port on switch .. Replace switch.
This will require you drill some holes to route the cables.
OPTIONAL and what I recommend.
Leave it the way it is and run a new cable.. this is the best way
NOTE: The major difference between RG-59 and RG-6 is loss.. Now TOP QUALITY RG-59 is not much different from bargain RG-6 (Source Belkin, they make both).
But HIGH QUALITY RG-6,,, IS much much, much better than even the best of RG-59, Like 1/4 the signal loss. So a SHORT run of 59 likely will nto do much damage but if the run hits like 30-50 feet, Well 50 feet is like 200 feet of RG-6.
And lowest bidder 59,, is worse.
1 to 10 years depending on the quality of your converter/charger and the quality of ... well... YOU.
Took me a few years to learn all the facts.. I used to get new batteries every spring, but once I studied and learned.. My last set lasted
AGM's. 5 years
Flooded wet 9 years
Maintenance free: not really sure but about 9 years is close (They were older than the RV, RV is 9, just put new GC-2's in it last month, Replaced chassis batery a month or so before that.. Got AGM's in 2006 replaced in 2011, they were actually dead before that,, One of the reasons I'm not a fan of AGM's.)
Converter (This is important) is a Progressive Dynamics Intella power 9180 with wizard
Battery bank (Current) is two GC-2 (flooded wet) and I think 3 Group 29 Maintenance free in parallel . I have room for one more G-29 if I wish, used to have 2 G-31 AGMs and a 2 G-29s (MF) which were older than the RV.
One Inverter/converter (converter normally disabled) Prosine 2.0
Chassis battery is a group 78
I do check fluid level in the GC2s at least 4 times a year,, New I add about annually, as they age the frequency of add increases.. DISTILLED WATER only.
In the old days I used an automotive type charger on a Maintenance Free Marine/Deep cycle with a trailer and had to put new batteries in annually. Finally learned how to keep em lasting longer.. The original G-29's were from teh trailer and from a home emergency power pack.
There was a recent article on "Used oil" and it showed the certification chart shown above.
I can think of many uses for old oil... (in small amounts) but putting it in a modern tight tolerance engine is not on the list..
That said, the certification level will be clearly stamped or printed on the can,, If it's on the right end of the chart... It's good.