The major problem with Brake Buddy, Even brake and the other "Box in the driver's seat" systems is that though they advertise "no installation" this is simply not true. You must INSTALL it every time you hook up.
This leads to two problems. As the O/P found out the hard way (As Did I with a different system) Every install is a chance to GOOF and cause a problem
And 2nd. With the "Box in the seat" jobs. For a short tow the tendency to say "oh, That's too much trouble" and regret it later.
I'd get the Ready Brake re-installed, and I'd personally inspect the job to make sure it's done right.
One warning on that system. If you live in the great salted North it can rust and bind.. Just exactly like your parking brake cable does (Same type of cable in fact) Assorted ways to keep that from happening.
I have had this motor home in the shop for several repairs
Air conditioner (total failure) fixed (replaced) in one try
Leaking oil seal, rear axle,, Fixed first try
Misfire, turned out to be nibbled ignition wires,, First try
Broken Serp Belt (Well half of it, First try
Not so lucky with my car.. So far A/C two tries (Slow leak, the first time they made it a much, much slower leak (They found 2 out of 3 leaks) too soon to tell if they fixed it completly last try.
Evaporative Emmissions System leak.. Still working on that one. We know the problem but the funds are not yet present. Had to spend them elsewhere.
Winger Christmas in July was yesterday :).
Hey, if you send me a private message I can help you with that Amazon Wish list.. I recently got a new Ham Radio.. FOR FREE off amazon, In fact I wound up with about 9 bucks worth of FREE left over.. Just added 25 more Free dollars to my Amazon account..
If you have a Winegard SENSAR II or III (The two antennas we often call a "Batwing") then you really should add the "WINGMAN" for improved UHF performance.
The WINGMAN (which is pictured above) is a 3 element UHF Director array
IT POINTS toward the antenna.
Without it, same position for the batwing
Additional performance improvement can be had by replacing your antenna switch wall plate (inside the RV) with a SENSAR PRO module.. Several advanced features including improved performance. (How I'm watching a Colombo from yesterday Morning as I type).
Saved, I still have one Carrier Air V...
Had a camper with one who said it was makling a lot of noise, turned out to be the blower.. I had "Salvaged" the blower off my old 2nd Carrier Air V.. he was happy being as it was late friday and no chance of getting a replacement till Monday.
Some history.. Make what you want of it:
Proper following distance:
When I was in Driver's ED they taught one car length (20') for every 10 MPH as I recall (might be wrong) later they change it to "The time you travel in 2 seconds) much easier to gauge) and later still 3, 4 for large rigs (motor homes)
Later in life I went to work as a police dispatcher.. Well where the post was if I took my lunch break outside I could watch traffic on the freeway below.
Average following distance was the distance you travel in 1 second, and Read on
Then we moved the office twice, last move gave us over 150 Freeway cameras and often the best show on TV was the Freeway Follies.. Many were following at closer to 1/2 second.
Yes, Tailgating is a problem
Gas stove (Full size residential 4 Burner Kitchen range with oven) fell off a truck and landed in the second lane. We'd watch cars come up on it, all in the same lane, and all but the lead tailgating,, The first would change lanes at the last second and the next two... underwear
Finally 3 cars and a pickup
First changed lanes at last second
Second changed underwear
#3, I'm rather sure hit #2
And the pickup.. Did not stop, swerve or slow down. He place kicked that stove a good quarter mile and dropped it on the shoulder.
I called off the troopers I'd dispatched and called county back and re-seheduled pick up for the monrning and gave the updated location.
Manufacturer is INLAND
Gain is 5-7 DB they claim but under power supply it says PASSIVE so I'm not sure how they are getting gain, should be 3db over Isotropic for that type of antenna.
Frequency range is 87MHZ up, that does not include VHF-Low but does FM through UHF. (I did not note the high end) VHF low is 50-86 MHZ in case you wonder. or for Television 56-86 MHZ. Channels 2,3,4,5 and 6 (50 is channel 1, a ham radio band).
All information above (Save the band designations and my comments comes from the link the original poster supplied by the way.
It depends on several things
Open lot: Solar may work, Make sure you have a properly programmed controller
You have power in the storage facility: Your converter.. if you have a good quality converter like any of the Progressive Dynamics Wizard models this is #1 on the good idea list.. Just plug in.. In my case I can plug in JUST the converter if I wish to make sure I limit current draw.
If you have an older rig with say a Magnetek 6300... NOT a good idea
If no power in the storage lot and solar not an option
First, using a small can of RED spray paint (Testors is good) Spray down the positive wires on the batteries... Use Black on the negative.. now photograph and allow to dry
Remove batteries to a place you can store them WITH POWER
Set them on a slab of scrap wood (Reason in a minute)
Use a "Battery Minder" or "Battery Tender"
Why set 'em on scrap wood
MYTH: Setting on concrete will damage the battery... Well perhaps once but not today
Truth: Setting on concrete MAY damage the concreate, if the battery leaks a bit a floor is expensive to replace, be it Con create, Wood, Vinyl or other. (Cermaic or glazed clay tile is usually fairly hard to damage)
Scrap wood on the other hand.. Is very very cheap (Definition of SCRAP) and thus easily replaced at no cost.
Any grill that uses disposable bottles can be connected to a large refillable tank or to an RV's Propane system using the proper hose
Does not matter the make so long as it uses the standard Disposable cylinders like a Benz-O-Matic propane torch uses.
Does this help.. ANY make, Any model, NO exceptions.
I will say again.. Many cities have rules about parking for more than 24 or 48 or 72 hours when it comes to on-street parking, also the time limit may vary from block to block.... It does not matter if you are parking a Semi, a Motor home, A TT a 5ER or a Mini-Cooper... For that matter a Motorcycle. The time limit stands.
I had a trooper run afoul of that time limit and man was he ticked off. But he still had to pay to get his ride out of impound.
NOTE: Winegard did, at one time, sell an antenna that did NOT have a pre-amp in the had... Now I do not know this antenna but there are two common designes, Dipole and folded dipole
A Dipole designed for TV use (With no electronics in the head) will show as an open circuit to the antenna connection
A FOLDED dipole is a short.
One thing that can affect boost is the connection between converter and battery.. Now actually on the PD's Boost and absorption are basically the same (Boost is current limited, Absorption voltage limited but as I recall (Can look up) same voltage) so your Tri-metric may not show the BOOST mode properly.
ALso, line resistance (Wire and connections between converter and battery) may limit your current and knock any converter out of "Boost".
From the manual (PD 9105)
Lignt on steady 14.4 volts
Light blinks once or more per second 13.6 Volts
Light blinks every 6-8 Seconds 13.2 volts
They call it Boost, Normal and Storage.
Though there are several good ideas what I'd do is invest the hundred dollars and go get a Gen-Turi.. light weight, comes with a carry bag, Easily breaks down to 3 sections for storing, Works great and the big stand pipe gets about as how as the average tub of bath water. (Unless the sun shines on it, Being black it really soaks up sun).
I know this.. With "Traditional" technology when one of my 13.5 amp 13,500 BTU A/C's died I replaced just the upper (Rooftop) part with a different make, this one is also 13.5 amps.... but 15,000 btu. More cool, same power.
It does take a bit more to kickstart it though (A hard start kit might fix that).
Thus technology is improving even with the traidtional stuff.
The big problem is the generator makers.. Now I used to have a GENRAC-1000.. And when Genrac (Well Briggs & Stratton) made this traditional but fully enclosed power supplier they did something strange. It said "1,000" and it means "1,000" (and then a bit) I had no problems drawing enough current to trip the 10 amp breaker (1,200 watts) when my electric chain saw jamed.. It ran a Window A/C in my house and more.
But when HONDA says 2,000, they mean something like 1,760.. That is the big issue.
Moral. Bring your magnifying glass to the sales room and READ THE FINE PRINT.
Depends. Generally no but I suspect if you left it turned on dry for like a Month or more you'd have issues.
The pump is what is called a diaphragm pump. there are 3 moving parts that contact water plus one more that does not plus a switch
The inlet check valve (if the tank is dry this is going to just site there)
The outlet check valve (See inlet)
The diaphragm. It has contact with only one other part (A metal plunger) and it does not move relative to said plunger so nothing for it to rub against..
The plus one is the plunger, which is inside a magnet (Solenoid style) and of course the switch (And spring) that turns the magnet on and off.
As an alternative, you can get a propane "fire in a can" and at least be able to make smors, or cook hot dogs, etc. But, if you do, you still need to check if it is ok to use one.
I have two alternatives here.. One is the one listed above (not the campfire in a can but a competing brand) and I've used it No sparks are given off since it is a propane fire.. Looks nice, feels real.
The other is a wood burner (or charcoal) called PIT-2-GO.. I do not think you can get 'em any more but one of the options is a spark arrester/fish grill (Does double duty) and it does a fairly good job
I also keep a water bottle (1.5 Gallons under pressure) handy.. These are better known as garden sprayers.
in the short term. It nags nags nags you
In the long term: Microsoft illegally terminates support for the older operating system several years before they can legally do so (Based on history) and they CHARGE you for the update
Today you can update for free.. Tomorrow. who knows.
Ok, first I do not think the radio itself makes all that much difference.. Though it can.
What matters is the antenna.. proper length is 18 or 36" (there are some other possible lengths as well) as the wave length (300/162) is just under 2 meters or right around 2 yards.
The BEST, antennsa however are external.. So if your radio has the ability to use an external antenna, Put one ON THE ROOF, of the RV (or on the ladder or on the arm of your Winegard) use a design that either includes it's own ground plane (Radial elements that stick out) or needs no ground plane
(You can find several antennas on the following Link, these are designed for a nearby ham band (144-148 MHZ) but will usually work with Weather band (162) though shortening them to the limit of their stop may help. (do not cut, use adjustment)
MFJ Enterprises 2 meter antennas
These antennas use 52 OHM coax NOT RG-59/RG-6 but RG-58 or several other numbers.
If you have a unit with a FIXED antenna. like I do, you can bring the coax in then fix a connector as follows... Solder a wire to the center pin, wrap twice around the "finger" style antenna, and solder the other end to the body/shield.
It works by inductive coupling.
I have 3 computers here. One can not be updated so it still runs eXtra Painful. the other two have been updated, but.... One of them took a fall and broke.. The "original" had a couple programs installed and as a result it's postage stamp size hard drive (Both literally and figurativelly) did not have the room to handle the update.. So it refused,, Kept nagging but would not do it.
So when I got the replacement I updated first.. THEN installed the software (HAM Radio Delux and some other stuff) so it's happy, in fact it's running Chrome on another web page as I type.