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Open Roads Forum  >  Truck Campers

 > Norcold Refrigerator Problem

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sleepy

Oak Ridge,Tennessee

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Posted: 06/23/05 05:25pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Phone the phone # in the manual that came with the refridgerator... Norcold will diagnose the problem for you and send you the parts free by overnight mail.

I found them to be excellent with their service.

Your refridgerator is under warrenty... you could void the warrenty by working on it yourself.

A good rule of thumb is Always try the manufacturer first, try advice from people that you don't know on the internet last.
Good luck,


2003 Lance 1161,/slideout/AGM batteries/255W Solar/propane generator/Sat dish/2 Fantastic Fans/AC/winter pkg
AirFoil, Trimetric, LED lights, Platcat vent heat

2003GMC K3500 LT/Crewcab/duramax diesel/allison/dually/4x4/OnStar/front reciever mounted spare

BillS

Mount Pleasant, TX

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Posted: 06/24/05 04:40am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

gregdennis53 wrote:

I am one of the people who posted the original Norcold reset instructions on the Tech Issues site a couple years ago. Search for it. Most NO CO codes are due to fact that running refer on DC will not adequately cool contents and the internal sensor shuts the refer down and displays "NO COLD" aka NO CO code. You do get a few NO CO codes from parking on a slope and trying to run the refer, but most of the time the problem is operating on DC. An internal sensor shuts the refer down if cooling rate is inadequate. You can reset from the front panel 1 time, but on the second NO CO code thge refer locks you out and you have to reset via circuit board from outside rig. The owner's manual does not discuss the external reset, but the procedure is simple and all you need is a screwdriver and a piece of wire. My friend is a Norcold tech and he tells me that Norcold screwed up on their circuit board design by failing to recognize that a refer running on DC will probably never get cold fast enough to avoid tripping the NO CO sensor. Since learning the trick of resetting I never run on DC, only AC or propane and have had very few problems. Happy Camping.


If you replace the Norcold circuit board with a Dinosaur aftermarket board, will the fridge still go into lockout mode on DC?

Bill


'03 Lance 1121
'03 Dodge 3500 Diesel Dually

gregdennis53

Vancouver (USA)

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Posted: 06/24/05 06:00pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Bill S - I do not know the answer to your question.

For anyone interested, here is the post I made on resetting Norcold in 2004 - still works for me: Posted:

"You need the refer to be powered on when you do the reset (i.e. the NO CO code flashing on your control panel).

Access the rear of the refer by removing the outside vent cover. Mine has 4 plastic clips that you turn 90 degrees to remove the cover. You then need to remove the circuit board cover. Mine has 4 or 5 sheet metal type screws. Underneath the circuit board cover there will be a a 16 pin connector mounted on the circuit board. Make a jumper wire about 10 inches long from a piece of solid copper insulated wire with 1/2 of insulation removed from each end. Insert one end of the jumper wire in the # 15 pin location which is normally vacant(top row, second from left). Touch the other end of the wire to one of the three grounds at the bottom right corner of the board (white wire). Hold the connection for 10-15 seconds. You should hear a click as the control resets. If you don't hear the click after trying this a couple of times, or if the refer does not cool down after resetting, you could have a serious problem and you need to see a mechanic.

I carry a jumper wire along with a socket driver to fit the screws in the circuit board cover. I have been thinking about installing a small pushbutton switch somewhere inside the back of the refer so that I can do the reset without having to take the circuit board cover off, but have not done so due to concerns about voiding my factory warranty. Happy Camping."

Note: I have done this 2 or 3 times in the past couple years. My problem is always due to trying to run the Norcold on DC for an extended period of time. I contacted the factory to inquire about a new board to avoid this problem and they gave me a long lecture about how this reset procedure should not be done by anyone other than a factory authorized repair center, so consider yourself warned."

BillS

Mount Pleasant, TX

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Posted: 06/25/05 04:00am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

gregdennis53,

Thanks. I copied and printed the control board reset instructions from your original post and keep it in my Owner's Manual in case I ever need to reset my control board.

I run the fridge on DC very seldom; however, I do run it quite a bit on AC with the on board generator running while driving in very hot weather. The fridge cools much better on AC going down the road than on LP in hot weather... evidently the flame blows out while driving on the LP setting quite often.

If this fridge cooling system ever fails, I'll replace the fridge with a 120-Volt AC/12-Volt DC compressor type Norcold. It's a direct replacement. We don't "boondock" so I don't really need a LP powered absorption type fridge.

Bill

SamB4

Calgary,Alberta,Canada

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Posted: 06/28/05 02:00pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I had this problem last summer camping around Lake Mead. After a series of unfortunate events and a visit to two dealerships in Las Vegas, they managed to reset the board. I had no more problems until we again got into some warmer weather and running the fridge on propane. Seems that when running on propane in hot weather there is not enough venting in the refrigerator compartment and it overheats. I found the solution to the problem was to prop the outside access door open with a small stick (readily available in almost all boondocking places [emoticon].

Not had a problem since. But I did copy the instructions to reset the fridge.


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scottf200rv

IL

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Posted: 08/13/06 07:55pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

gregdennis53 wrote:

{snip}Access the rear of the refer by removing the outside vent cover. Mine has 4 plastic clips that you turn 90 degrees to remove the cover. You then need to remove the circuit board cover. Mine has 4 or 5 sheet metal type screws. Underneath the circuit board cover there will be a a 16 pin connector mounted on the circuit board. Make a jumper wire about 10 inches long from a piece of solid copper insulated wire with 1/2 of insulation removed from each end. Insert one end of the jumper wire in the # 15 pin location which is normally vacant(top row, second from left). Touch the other end of the wire to one of the three grounds at the bottom right corner of the board (white wire). Hold the connection for 10-15 seconds. You should hear a click as the control resets. If you don't hear the click after trying this a couple of times, or if the refer does not cool down after resetting, you could have a serious problem and you need to see a mechanic.

I carry a jumper wire along with a socket driver to fit the screws in the circuit board cover. I have been thinking about installing a small pushbutton switch somewhere inside the back of the refer so that I can do the reset without having to take the circuit board cover off, but have not done so due to concerns about voiding my factory warranty. Happy Camping."{snip}


That push button idea is a good one. I'm out of warranty and have had this problem several times. Dealer could not reproduce although they tried several ways. They can not (reimbursed from manuf) replace it unless it is "broke".

The reset instructions I use are very similar except:
a) turn on propane (for a minute) as it is easy to see when it is working since it "fires" up.
b) ground to the grounded gas line (in case white grounds are not obvious to some - we know the gas line is grounded!)
c) I replaces the hexagon machine screws with some regular philips heads obtained at Sears Hardware. I figured would have more access to a philips at a camp ground (if not bringing my own).

* This post was edited 08/14/06 07:13am by scottf200rv *


Scott

Pete_k

Stantonville Tn

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Posted: 08/13/06 08:02pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ours did that. And the wire that strikes to light the gas was shoring out and burnt the board up. Also that was the first week.
A new board and mine was fine.
It would light on gas then go back out.
Pete


2022 Ram Big Horn DRW on order">
2005 Chevy Kodiak c5500 Cummins 5.9/Allison Trans
2012 Landmark Key Largo soon to turn into a Truck camper.

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